Lories and Lorikeets
http://theaviary.com/s1295-17.shtml
by Nora N. Stanley This article originally appeared in SQUAWK, the newsletter of the Big Apple Bird Association and is reprinted with permission.
The parrots in the family Loriinae are known for their unusual brush-tipped tongues. These birds feed upon pollen, nectar and fruits, while inadvertently pollinating the flowers of the trees on which they feed.
The family Loriinae is usually divided into two classes of birds, lories and lorikeets. Lories are larger, heavier-bodied birds with squared-off tails. Lorikeets are more slender, with longer, tapering tails. All lories and lorikeets are quite beautiful; most species have brightly colored, glossy feathers in rainbow hues, with coral-red beaks. The curiosity and playfulness of lories, combined with their exotic colors, make them quite desirable as pets.
There are many species of lories being raised commercially. A hand-fed lory or lorikeet, which has become imprinted on humans, makes the best pet. Almost all hand-fed lories can learn to talk, but the best talkers are in the Eos and Lorius genera. The chattering lory, Lorius Garrulus, is quite aptly named; for even when untrained, it will carry on its own "chatter" all day. The smaller lorikeets may only learn to say a few words clearly, but are still as playful, inquisitive, and colorful as their larger relatives.
Wild lories and lorikeets spend their days climbing, hopping and hanging upside down while feeding from flowers. Pet lories, just as active, must have large, roomy cages filled with hanging toys and "foot" toys. They cannot be kept on open t-stands, even with clipped wings, because the birds can hop quite a distance. A clipped wing is useful in training a new bird, however. Even with fully regrown flight feathers, a pet lory will prefer to hang onto its owner.
Probing with their long, brush-tipped tongues, lories enjoy examining the eyes, ears and lips of their favorite person. A pet lory must have regularly scheduled playtime with its owner. Lories can become easily bored when caged too long and only given the same toys. Wild lories travel in flocks from tree to tree; their lives are filled with variety. The owner must provide that interaction and variety, or the bird will suffer.
Lories should have hanging toys with safe chains and bells, but avoid leather, which may become sticky or moist from the nectar food and droppings. Smaller toys should be plastic, because lories often dunk them in their nectar. The perches should be natural wood because lories like to chew. Pesticide-free maple and weeping willow are very good. Since lories bathe frequently, a waterbath should always be attached to the cage. Lories also appreciate being sprayed with plain water. A blow dryer can be used to dry a wet bird during winter months.
Wild lories sleep in the nests year round. A pet lory can be provided with a commercial next box. A nest suitable for a lorikeet can be made from a clean, quart-sized plastic bottle. The opening can be cut off the enlarge the entrance. For a larger lory, purchase a plastic "mini-crate" from a variety store. Either of these can be wired into the upper portion of the cage. Although a pet lory may not sleep in its new "nest" right away, the bird won't hesitate to look into it once it's installed. Lories investigate everything.
In the past, lory owners had to make their own diets. Many of these were tedious to make, and oftentimes nutritionally poor.
There are many commercial diets available today. However, no one can be certain which is best in the long run. The Animal Medical Center, in Manhattan, recommends Nekton Lori, a powdered nectar mix which is nutritionally balanced, palatable, and easy to prepare; Nekton Lori can be purchased directly from the Nekton distributor in Florida. Lories do not usually eat seeds, except for those in soaked figs, or occasionally small pieces of millet spray. Even with a good nectar diet, pet lories should be offered fruits, vegetables, greens, cooked egg, and if possible, unsprayed weeping willow twigs. If needed, additional vitamins can be added to the nectar or soft food. A small mineral block should also be wired into the cage; if it becomes soiled, it must be discarded.
Lories are often called messy because of the liquid droppings. Their droppings contain more moisture than other parrots due to their nectar diet. Plastic can be placed under and behind the cage to make cleanup easier. Purchase a cage with a plastic base and tray. The tray can be lined with paper, and changed daily, or topped with a grate and filled with absorbent commercial bedding. Cages should be sponged down daily, and scrubbed under hot water once a week.
Lorikeets can be as small as budgerigars, but are more commonly about the size of cockatiels (such as rainbow lorikeets). Lories are about as big as small amazons (e.g. chattering lories). Despite their smaller size, lories and lorikeets are more bold and headstrong than other birds. Pet lories usually should be caged alone. A handfed lory will react with jealousy toward another bird, and may kill it. To their owners, however, lories can be quite charming and affectionate, and will demand attention. Lories and lorikeets behave like playful kittens that never grow up.
A happy, healthy lory is rarely still. Someone seeking a quiet, sedate pet won't want a lory. These birds call softly, but do shriek loudly when alarmed. A prospective lory owner should be prepared to play with a handfed bird daily, or it will lose its pet qualities. A neglected lory will quickly become very nippy, and may pluck its feathers.
Lories are usually cheaper than other parrots because of their need for a nectar diet, resulting in their reputation for "messy" droppings. However, their charming personalities, exotic colors, and smaller size make them very desirable. Today, more breeders are raising pet lories, so it's possible to choose among a few species, then select a bird. The breeder can also give advice on the feeding and care specifically for that species of bird. There are still some unscrupulous breeders who are raising lories on a birdseed-only diet, for the "convenience" of the owner. Never purchase a bird raised on seeds; it will eventually die from perforation of the crop, or malnutrition. That certainly isn't convenient.
While lories have become more popular, not all veterinarians are experienced with them. When selecting an avian vet, make sure he or she has studied lories. Most larger animal hospitals have exotic specialists. When the lory is finally purchased, it should be taken immediately to the avian specialist for a complete examination. Generally if lories are fed a good nectar diet twice a day, a variety of fruits and vegetables, and given daily exercise, the birds will stay quite healthy.
Lories are affordable, boldly-colored, affectionate and spunky parrots. They can be uninhibited in their friendliness, and will play for hours on end. Many of the larger species speak very clearly, and all can mimic sounds. Someone wishing to buy a lively, beautiful but relative inexpensive bird should look into the lories and lorikeets.
Saturday, March 21, 2009
Getting Your Lory
Getting Your Lory - The Basics
Margrethe Warden
Now that you’ve made the decision to get a lory there are several more factors to consider. From where will you get this bird and from whom? How will it arrive? What will you do with it after it arrives?
The best place to start would be with a reputable breeder. There are great people all over the United States and beyond who work with lories and one of them has the type you’re looking for. Start with getting references and asking around. If the breeder provides you with names of previous customers, contact them! Ask all the questions you can think of about the breeder and about the birds. Ask other people not listed as references as well. Most people are not going to give out the names of unsatisfied customers. There is a large network of "lory people" out there. Find them. They’re in your community, involved in the local bird club and on the Internet. They can not only give you information about certain breeders but they can also give you information about providing the best care for your new bird.
Once you have decided on where your bird will come from you need to settle on price, payment method and the terms of purchase. It doesn’t hurt to check around and find out what’s the current market price for your particular lory. Many good breeders have sales contracts that outline their responsibilities and yours. These contracts usually provide for a health guarantee based on your own vet examining the bird upon its arrival. The agreement should also outline under what conditions, if any, your money can be refunded if the bird is ill or dies soon after its arrival.
You need to know how your lory will be coming to you. If the breeder lives close enough you might be able to arrange to pick it up or to meet partway. If it’s coming from out of state the bird will need to be shipped via airline cargo. This would necessitate a trip to your local airport. Many airlines do not ship live animals so it’s important to know what airlines fly into your area. The most common carriers seem to be Continental, Delta and US Airways. Shipping is not usually very stressful for the bird; however, it can be a difficult time for the worried new owner. Once the bird is placed inside a shipping container, it usually remains fairly calm in that dark environment. If the bird needs to change planes in transit make sure the shipper allows sufficient time between flights to make that change. Plan to spend anywhere form $100 - $180 for the cost of shipping. Some shippers will use the US Postal Service because the price is less than commercial airlines. The Postal Service is not a recommend shipper as they may bump the bird in favor of more important cargo and it is also ILLEGAL to ship parrots with them.
You need to locate a good avian vet if you don’t already have one. Again, your network of bird people will help you with this task. It’s important that the vet be know about birds and vain medicine and hopefully has experience with lories. When you’ve established an arrival date for your bird, make an appointment with the vet for a Well Bird check. Most health guarantees require the vet check be done within 3 working days from arrival. Some of the basic tests include a fecal gram stain, a CBC (complete blood count) and an avian panel. These will give the vet a snapshot of the bird’s health as well as provide a baseline for future reference.
Now that you know you’ll be getting this bird soon you’ll also need to have a suitable cage and food available. The minimum cages size in one in which the bird can fully outstretch its wings and be able to turn completely around. Lories use a lot of their cage space, including the top and bottom and all 4 sides so this is a situation where size DOES matter. The bar spacing should be narrow enough that the bird cannot get its head stuck. This cage should be one that is easily cleaned. Removable grates on the bottom and slide out trays are important. Many owners worry about the mess caused by the runny droppings that are typical of lories. This mess can be managed simply. Plastic chair mats sold at any office supply store can provide protection for your carpet. Seed guards, if available can be helpful. Sin inexpensive shower curtain can be hung behind the cage to catch those squirts and thrown fruit and can be easily removed and cleaned. Panels made of acrylic or similar material can be attached to the cage and removed for cleaning. Along with the cage you will need to consider toys. Lories are active and love to play. They enjoy swings and toys they can hand from or undo. They don’t chew to the degree other parrots do but they enjoy chipping away at wooden toys. They also enjoy "foot" toys – those loose ones on the bottom of the cage that can be tossed around. Those little balls with bells inside that are designed for cats are perfect as long as they are not something a toe could get stuck in. One need not spend a fortune on toys either as pretty much everything is a toy to a lory.
Another thing you need to have ready for your bird’s arrival is appropriate food. Lories do not eat the same diet as other parrots. They eat primarily fruit and nectar. A good commercial lory diet is import as is a variety of fresh foods. Have the food available prior to the bird’s arrival. Also, ask the seller what type of diet the bird was fed. If different from what you plan to feed, ask that they include some of its normal food when they send it to you.
You are now ready to pick up your new lory!
Margrethe Warden
Now that you’ve made the decision to get a lory there are several more factors to consider. From where will you get this bird and from whom? How will it arrive? What will you do with it after it arrives?
The best place to start would be with a reputable breeder. There are great people all over the United States and beyond who work with lories and one of them has the type you’re looking for. Start with getting references and asking around. If the breeder provides you with names of previous customers, contact them! Ask all the questions you can think of about the breeder and about the birds. Ask other people not listed as references as well. Most people are not going to give out the names of unsatisfied customers. There is a large network of "lory people" out there. Find them. They’re in your community, involved in the local bird club and on the Internet. They can not only give you information about certain breeders but they can also give you information about providing the best care for your new bird.
Once you have decided on where your bird will come from you need to settle on price, payment method and the terms of purchase. It doesn’t hurt to check around and find out what’s the current market price for your particular lory. Many good breeders have sales contracts that outline their responsibilities and yours. These contracts usually provide for a health guarantee based on your own vet examining the bird upon its arrival. The agreement should also outline under what conditions, if any, your money can be refunded if the bird is ill or dies soon after its arrival.
You need to know how your lory will be coming to you. If the breeder lives close enough you might be able to arrange to pick it up or to meet partway. If it’s coming from out of state the bird will need to be shipped via airline cargo. This would necessitate a trip to your local airport. Many airlines do not ship live animals so it’s important to know what airlines fly into your area. The most common carriers seem to be Continental, Delta and US Airways. Shipping is not usually very stressful for the bird; however, it can be a difficult time for the worried new owner. Once the bird is placed inside a shipping container, it usually remains fairly calm in that dark environment. If the bird needs to change planes in transit make sure the shipper allows sufficient time between flights to make that change. Plan to spend anywhere form $100 - $180 for the cost of shipping. Some shippers will use the US Postal Service because the price is less than commercial airlines. The Postal Service is not a recommend shipper as they may bump the bird in favor of more important cargo and it is also ILLEGAL to ship parrots with them.
You need to locate a good avian vet if you don’t already have one. Again, your network of bird people will help you with this task. It’s important that the vet be know about birds and vain medicine and hopefully has experience with lories. When you’ve established an arrival date for your bird, make an appointment with the vet for a Well Bird check. Most health guarantees require the vet check be done within 3 working days from arrival. Some of the basic tests include a fecal gram stain, a CBC (complete blood count) and an avian panel. These will give the vet a snapshot of the bird’s health as well as provide a baseline for future reference.
Now that you know you’ll be getting this bird soon you’ll also need to have a suitable cage and food available. The minimum cages size in one in which the bird can fully outstretch its wings and be able to turn completely around. Lories use a lot of their cage space, including the top and bottom and all 4 sides so this is a situation where size DOES matter. The bar spacing should be narrow enough that the bird cannot get its head stuck. This cage should be one that is easily cleaned. Removable grates on the bottom and slide out trays are important. Many owners worry about the mess caused by the runny droppings that are typical of lories. This mess can be managed simply. Plastic chair mats sold at any office supply store can provide protection for your carpet. Seed guards, if available can be helpful. Sin inexpensive shower curtain can be hung behind the cage to catch those squirts and thrown fruit and can be easily removed and cleaned. Panels made of acrylic or similar material can be attached to the cage and removed for cleaning. Along with the cage you will need to consider toys. Lories are active and love to play. They enjoy swings and toys they can hand from or undo. They don’t chew to the degree other parrots do but they enjoy chipping away at wooden toys. They also enjoy "foot" toys – those loose ones on the bottom of the cage that can be tossed around. Those little balls with bells inside that are designed for cats are perfect as long as they are not something a toe could get stuck in. One need not spend a fortune on toys either as pretty much everything is a toy to a lory.
Another thing you need to have ready for your bird’s arrival is appropriate food. Lories do not eat the same diet as other parrots. They eat primarily fruit and nectar. A good commercial lory diet is import as is a variety of fresh foods. Have the food available prior to the bird’s arrival. Also, ask the seller what type of diet the bird was fed. If different from what you plan to feed, ask that they include some of its normal food when they send it to you.
You are now ready to pick up your new lory!
FEEDING LORIES
FEEDING LORIES
Margrethe Warden
There are probably as many ways to feed lories as there are people feeding them. While there is no absolute one way to feed them there are some guidelines that can make the diet quandary easier.
Lories are physiologically different than other parrots and are designed to consume a diet of nectar, pollen, fruit, bugs, small lizards and such. Their brush tongue is perfectly suited to the gathering of this nectar and pollen. Their ventriculous, or gizzard, is less muscular than that of other parrots therefore they should not eat the type of hard, dry diet we feed our other parrots.
Margrethe Warden
There are probably as many ways to feed lories as there are people feeding them. While there is no absolute one way to feed them there are some guidelines that can make the diet quandary easier.
Lories are physiologically different than other parrots and are designed to consume a diet of nectar, pollen, fruit, bugs, small lizards and such. Their brush tongue is perfectly suited to the gathering of this nectar and pollen. Their ventriculous, or gizzard, is less muscular than that of other parrots therefore they should not eat the type of hard, dry diet we feed our other parrots.
NECTAR Most lory owners and breeders have found that the birds are healthier, happier and longer lived when they have nectar in their diet. There are several commercial products on the market designed specifically for lories. One of the most popular commercial lory diets available in the U.S. is Avico’s Lory Life. This product is available in both a powder form intended to be offered dry and a mix that with water added makes a nectar. These two products are nutritionally equal however the ingredients in the nectar mix are all water-soluble. In addition to Lory Life, Nekton Lori is also available as a nectar mix. Both these products have been around since the mid 1980’s and have been used extensively on flocks of lories for several generations. If commercial nectar makes up a significant portion of your lory’s diet there is no need to worry about adding vitamin or mineral supplements
FRUITS & VEGETABLES While commercial products are considered to be "total nutrition" your birds can benefit from the added nutrients of a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables. Some of the best items to offer a lory are papaya, cantaloupe, mango, pears, apples, sweet potatoes, carrots, broccoli, squash, bell pepper, jalapeno peppers, dark leafy greens such as kale and peas. Cooking foods destroys many of the nutrients so these food should be served fresh. Because of their natural curiosity, most lories will accept new diets readily. Fresh foods can be given in a chopped mix. If the bird seems to reject the chopped fresh foods, try pureeing the fruit and even the veggies and adding it to the nectar. Remember, VARIETY is essential.SPROUTS Freshly sprouted seeds are an excellent source of vitamins, minerals, protein, enzymes and antioxidants. When seed begin to sprout they are at their peak nutritional level and they are easy to digest. Because they are soft, they are suitable for lory consumption. Avoid sprouts purchased in the store as they my be older and less nutritious and they can contain harmful levels of E. coli. Seeds & beans to include in your sprout mix are: sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, mung beans, wheat berries, lentil, adzuka beans and corn.
THE PELLET ISSUE Pellet manufacturers have realized the benefit of marketing species specific diets and in doing so have jumped on the lory bandwagon. Vets often recommend a totally pelleted diet for feeding caged birds and those who do will generally recommend them for lories as well. The commercial diet Lory Life was formulated with the nutritional needs of lories in mind and extensively tested on large numbers of lories before being made available to the public. It is apparent that the same efforts have NOT been made on behalf of the pelleted lory diets. These pelleted diets seem to advertise that in feeding them the lory droppings will be much firmer and will therefore eliminate some of the mess associated with keeping lories. Clearly they are designed for the consumer who looks for convenience and ease when feeding lories, not for the welfare and benefit of the birds themselves. Most experienced lory keepers will recommend that pellets be omitted from your lory’s diet.
HOMEMADE DIETS Over the years a number of recipes for lory diets have surfaced. Many of them consist primarily of baby cereal and fructose and almost always include other dry ingredients as well. Unless you are well versed in the area of nutrition and can develop your own well balanced, nutritious lory diet, it's best to avoid the home made mixes. Many of these can be too high in protein, iron and fat while being deficient in other vitamins and minerals. The availability and cost of commercial lory food make diet creation unnecessary and are more cost effective than hunting down the ingredients yourself. This is not to say that you cannot exercise some creativity when feeding your lory. Many lories enjoy fresh fruit "nectar" which can be made by pureeing several different types of fruit (and even a veggie or two) together to make a thick fruit smoothie. A batch can be made and frozen into single serving portions. When mixing up Lory Life nectar, many owners add fruit juice and/or pureed fruit to it.
FRESH WATER Fresh, clean water is essential to the health of any bird. Be sure to provide plenty of it and change it daily. Lories can adapt to water bottles, however, they should be changed daily and the stoppers cleaned and disinfected frequently.
FOODS TO AVOID Human food with preservatives and added iron (ferrous sulfate) such as canned fruit, non organic baby foods and nectar drinks intended for human consumption; chocolate; products with caffeine such as coffee, tea and soft drinks, alcohol, eggplant and the stems and leaves or tomato plants which can contain toxic levels of solanine and alkaloids that can effect calcium absorption; corn, while not toxic is full of sugar and carbs which can help bring on obesity in your bird if fed in large quantities; mushrooms; the pits of Prunus species (peach, apricot, cherry, plum); tobacco.
housing for Lories
Caging Your Lory
Margrethe Warden
For any bird the housing is important. At the bare minimum, the cage should be large enough that if the bird sits in the center and outstretches its wings it could turn completely around without touching.
There are several factors that will influence cage selection. Price is a big one. It’s easy to spend considerably more on the cage than was spent on the bird. The location of the cage is another, lesser factor. In what room it will be placed may determine certain elements such as color. Available space is a big consideration when purchasing a cage for your pet bird. While one might want to buy the biggest cage on the market, if the space available is only a 24-inch corner in the living room, the cage cannot be larger.
Lories are incredibly active birds. Unlike many other types of parrots they tend to utilize the entire cage, including top, bottom and all sides. This can present a dilemma for the person who wants a reasonably sized cage to put in their home.
The ideal size for a single lory would be in the range of 2’ tall, 3’ wide and 3’ deep. Lories need the width and length more than the height. Cage manufacturers however are not inclined to make a cage with these dimensions. In the absence of other choices, look for a cage that is about 24" square. If appearance is not the most important thing, breeder style cages made from galvanized wire can be larger without costing a lot. These would be the most inexpensive cages available. Some lory owners have even used ferret cages and found them to be quite suitable for lories.
Another essential cage element is bar spacing. Make sure the bars are not far enough apart for the bird to get its head stuck. If your lory is one of the smaller varieties, perhaps ¾" spacing would be the safest. For the larger birds such as the Lorius and Chalcopsitta varieties, 1" spacing is acceptable. The bars must be such that toys and perches can be fastened on.
One of the most important consideration is cleaning and sanitizing. Lories, like most parrots, are not especially neat creatures. Having a pull out bottom tray is practical. The tray can be lined with newspaper, which is cheap and safe, and can easily be cleaned. A grate in the bottom is also a good idea as it keeps the bird out of dropped food and feces. Pull-out grates are wonderful because they can be removed and easily cleaned. The cage itself should not be so heavy that it cannot be moved easily. If a wheeled stand is available for the cage that’s even better. This makes moving a bulky cage easier, even to point of wheeling it outside for a good cleaning with a garden hose. Some cages also offer seed guards or some sort of attachable apron. These are effective in catching droppings and food but be sure they can be removed easily for cleaning. Toys and perches should also be ones that are easily removed and cleaned. Many cage accessories such as perches and toys can be cleaned in the dishwasher.
Finally, be sure the cage you select has an opening large enough for you to reach in with both hands as you may need to remove the bird from time to time.
Because the nature of lory droppings is a bit unlike other parrots you may wish to do some additional mess control. A plastic chair mat, sold in any office supply store, can protect carpets. Shower curtains or shower board can be hung on the walls behind the cage. Some people prefer to hang panels made of acrylic or similar material that can be removed for easy clean up. All it takes is a little imagination and possibly a power tool.
Margrethe Warden
For any bird the housing is important. At the bare minimum, the cage should be large enough that if the bird sits in the center and outstretches its wings it could turn completely around without touching.
There are several factors that will influence cage selection. Price is a big one. It’s easy to spend considerably more on the cage than was spent on the bird. The location of the cage is another, lesser factor. In what room it will be placed may determine certain elements such as color. Available space is a big consideration when purchasing a cage for your pet bird. While one might want to buy the biggest cage on the market, if the space available is only a 24-inch corner in the living room, the cage cannot be larger.
Lories are incredibly active birds. Unlike many other types of parrots they tend to utilize the entire cage, including top, bottom and all sides. This can present a dilemma for the person who wants a reasonably sized cage to put in their home.
The ideal size for a single lory would be in the range of 2’ tall, 3’ wide and 3’ deep. Lories need the width and length more than the height. Cage manufacturers however are not inclined to make a cage with these dimensions. In the absence of other choices, look for a cage that is about 24" square. If appearance is not the most important thing, breeder style cages made from galvanized wire can be larger without costing a lot. These would be the most inexpensive cages available. Some lory owners have even used ferret cages and found them to be quite suitable for lories.
Another essential cage element is bar spacing. Make sure the bars are not far enough apart for the bird to get its head stuck. If your lory is one of the smaller varieties, perhaps ¾" spacing would be the safest. For the larger birds such as the Lorius and Chalcopsitta varieties, 1" spacing is acceptable. The bars must be such that toys and perches can be fastened on.
One of the most important consideration is cleaning and sanitizing. Lories, like most parrots, are not especially neat creatures. Having a pull out bottom tray is practical. The tray can be lined with newspaper, which is cheap and safe, and can easily be cleaned. A grate in the bottom is also a good idea as it keeps the bird out of dropped food and feces. Pull-out grates are wonderful because they can be removed and easily cleaned. The cage itself should not be so heavy that it cannot be moved easily. If a wheeled stand is available for the cage that’s even better. This makes moving a bulky cage easier, even to point of wheeling it outside for a good cleaning with a garden hose. Some cages also offer seed guards or some sort of attachable apron. These are effective in catching droppings and food but be sure they can be removed easily for cleaning. Toys and perches should also be ones that are easily removed and cleaned. Many cage accessories such as perches and toys can be cleaned in the dishwasher.
Finally, be sure the cage you select has an opening large enough for you to reach in with both hands as you may need to remove the bird from time to time.
Because the nature of lory droppings is a bit unlike other parrots you may wish to do some additional mess control. A plastic chair mat, sold in any office supply store, can protect carpets. Shower curtains or shower board can be hung on the walls behind the cage. Some people prefer to hang panels made of acrylic or similar material that can be removed for easy clean up. All it takes is a little imagination and possibly a power tool.
Toys for Lories
Because these birds are active and easily entertained, providing sufficient and appropriate toys is rather simple. To a lory, pretty much anything & everything is a toy. There are certainly some necessary precautions when obtaining or making toys for your lory. If you’re using any items that have ropes or fibers, monitor the condition constantly. The fraying areas can become dangerous as the fibers can get wrapped around a toe, foot or neck. Consider the size and open spaces of the potential toy. Would they be of a size where a lory can get its head or foot stuck?
To start with, lories enjoy loose objects on the bottom of their cages. These can be plastic balls, sections cut from a cardboard paper towel tube, little whiffle balls with bells, plastic containers and tops, even plastic key rings from the infant section of the supermarket. Another favorite floor toy is a small plastic bottle, preferably with a screw on top, filled with beads or something that makes noise and rattles when moved. Noise, and lots of it, is essential to the well being of any lory.
Next, there must be hanging toys fastened to the top of the cage. Most lories enjoy swings. You can obtain an actual bird swing with a wooden, PVC or concrete perching area or you can fashion your own using a little imagination. Again, use caution if you are using rope as it can easily become frayed. While lories don’t have the destructive chewing habits that other psittacines have, they do enjoy some softer wooden items and they will demolish them. A great toy that combines amusement with nutrition are the kabobs or skewers you can attach large pieces of food to and hang from the cage. These are available in most pet stores who stock bird toys and supplies, but be sure to get the stainless steel ones. Because lories enjoy the challenge of dismantling things, rawhide knots can be another source of amusement. You must also be careful about the fastening hardware you use to attach the toy to the cage. Lories love a challenge and will enjoy undoing and removing things so ensure that the hardware is not likely to cause injury.
Safe and not safe plant & Flower
There are always questions about plants and which ones are safe and which ones should be avoided. The following is by no means a complete list of what is safe and what is not. You might need to do a little research on individual plants if you don't find it listed here.
Lories love flowers, so here are some SAFE common flowers your lory will love:
Acacia, Bottlebrush, Calendula, Carnation, Daisies, Dandelion, Eucalyptus, Hibiscus, Honeysuckle, Marigolds, Milk Thistle, Nasturtiums, Pansies, Passionflowers, Roses, Sunflowers and tree flowers including apple, citrus and eucalyptus.
Note: While many flowers may be safe, other parts of the plant including, leaves, stems and roots may be toxic
A PARTIAL LIST OF SAFE PLANTS AND TREES
Acacia, African Violet, Ash, Aspen, Baby’s Tears, Bamboo, Begonia, Birch, Bougainvillea, Christmas Cactus, Coleus, Corn Plant, Crabapple, Dandelion, Dodwood, Donkey Tail, Dracaena, Eucalyptus, Ferns (Asparagus, Birds Nest, Boston and Maidenhair), Figs, Gardenia, Grape Ivy, Jade Plant, Marigold, Mother-In-Law Tongue, Mulberry, Nasturtium, Natal Plum, Norfolk Island Pine, Palms (Areca, Date, Fan, Lady Parlor, Howeia, Kentia, Phoenix, Sago), Pepperomia, Petunia, Pine, Poplar, Prayer Plant, Purple Passion, Rubber Tree, Schefflera , Spider Plant, Swedish Ivy, Thistles, Umbrella Plant, Wandering Jew (green, variegated and purple), White Clover, Willow, Zebra Plant
SOME NOT–SO-SAFE-PLANTS
This is a partial list of plants that may be considered unsafe for a variety of reasons. Some may contain toxins that, when ingested, can cause problems. Or contact with may cause skin irritation. Others may be highly toxic in their entirety or some element of the plant may be toxic.
Amaryllis, Azalea, Black Locust, Box Elder, Buttercup, Cactus (danger from thorns), Caladium, Cedar, Clover, Crocus, Dieffenbachia, Elderberry, Gingko, Holly, Iris, Laurel, Lily, Marijuana, Milk Weed, Mimosa, Mistletoe, Morning Glory, Orchid, Olive, Ornamental Ivy, Philodendron, Poison Ivy, Poppy, Pothos, Ragweed, Rhododendron, Trumpet Vine, Verbena, Wisteria
Also not safe are the bulbs of flowers such as tulips, jonquils, hyacinths, daffodils, and iris.
NOTE: Nightshade is a group of plants whose members can be highly toxic; however there are some safe and edible members of this family. Potatoes, tomatoes and eggplant are all edible; however, the leaves, roots and vines may not be. All parts of Belladonna can be deadly poisonous.
Lories love flowers, so here are some SAFE common flowers your lory will love:
Acacia, Bottlebrush, Calendula, Carnation, Daisies, Dandelion, Eucalyptus, Hibiscus, Honeysuckle, Marigolds, Milk Thistle, Nasturtiums, Pansies, Passionflowers, Roses, Sunflowers and tree flowers including apple, citrus and eucalyptus.
Note: While many flowers may be safe, other parts of the plant including, leaves, stems and roots may be toxic
A PARTIAL LIST OF SAFE PLANTS AND TREES
Acacia, African Violet, Ash, Aspen, Baby’s Tears, Bamboo, Begonia, Birch, Bougainvillea, Christmas Cactus, Coleus, Corn Plant, Crabapple, Dandelion, Dodwood, Donkey Tail, Dracaena, Eucalyptus, Ferns (Asparagus, Birds Nest, Boston and Maidenhair), Figs, Gardenia, Grape Ivy, Jade Plant, Marigold, Mother-In-Law Tongue, Mulberry, Nasturtium, Natal Plum, Norfolk Island Pine, Palms (Areca, Date, Fan, Lady Parlor, Howeia, Kentia, Phoenix, Sago), Pepperomia, Petunia, Pine, Poplar, Prayer Plant, Purple Passion, Rubber Tree, Schefflera , Spider Plant, Swedish Ivy, Thistles, Umbrella Plant, Wandering Jew (green, variegated and purple), White Clover, Willow, Zebra Plant
SOME NOT–SO-SAFE-PLANTS
This is a partial list of plants that may be considered unsafe for a variety of reasons. Some may contain toxins that, when ingested, can cause problems. Or contact with may cause skin irritation. Others may be highly toxic in their entirety or some element of the plant may be toxic.
Amaryllis, Azalea, Black Locust, Box Elder, Buttercup, Cactus (danger from thorns), Caladium, Cedar, Clover, Crocus, Dieffenbachia, Elderberry, Gingko, Holly, Iris, Laurel, Lily, Marijuana, Milk Weed, Mimosa, Mistletoe, Morning Glory, Orchid, Olive, Ornamental Ivy, Philodendron, Poison Ivy, Poppy, Pothos, Ragweed, Rhododendron, Trumpet Vine, Verbena, Wisteria
Also not safe are the bulbs of flowers such as tulips, jonquils, hyacinths, daffodils, and iris.
NOTE: Nightshade is a group of plants whose members can be highly toxic; however there are some safe and edible members of this family. Potatoes, tomatoes and eggplant are all edible; however, the leaves, roots and vines may not be. All parts of Belladonna can be deadly poisonous.
SPROUTING MADE EASY
SPROUTING MADE EASY
Margrethe Warden
While not the “miracle” food they are often touted as, sprouted seeds and beans can be a beneficial part of any bird’s diet. Sprouting does alter the nutritional make up. The germination process can increase the vitamin and amino acid content of the seed or bean and it can also decrease the mineral, fat, and protein content.
People are often reluctant to attempt sprouting seeds and beans on their own because they believe it to be a complicated process. In fact, it is really quite simple. The thing about sprouts is you soak them 12-24 hours, using a stabilizer (bleach or grapefruit seed extract), drain them, and wait. If you use bleach you will need to rinse them every couple of hours until they've sprouted. I got started in sprouting through China Prairie using one-quart canning jars with lids and the grapefruit seed extract (GSE). The advantage of GSE is that you don't have to rinse the seeds once they've soaked & been drained. You can go to the China Prairie site and order their starter kit for $75. It includes several pounds of human grade seed for sprouting, three jars and lids, a tower for draining the jars, the GSE and a spirulina supplement that makes the whole thing smell very good.
You can do it yourself piecemeal if you'd like. Get some wide mouth canning jars and you can use cheesecloth purchased from the supermarket, secured over the lid with a rubber band. You can buy GSE from most health food stores or on the Internet from Nutriteam. If you order online, I recommend getting the 4 oz. size. Add about ten or twelve drops (I cc) per quart jar.
If you don't like draining through cheesecloth, you can get lids to fit wide mouth canning jars from The Sprout People . You can get jars in the 2 quart size too but that's a LOT of sprouts. They also sell seeds for sprouting but they're expensive.
For seeds you can order the 5# bags from China Prairie alone or you can gather up your own seeds & grains. I do buy some human grade seed and beans for sprouting from SunOrganic Farm. Keep in mind you will pay for shipping but their prices aren't bad. You will want to include mung beans, adzuki beans, lentils, whole peas, hulled sunflower seeds, hulled pumpkin seeds, millet, radish seeds, hulled oats, wheat berries. Also, Arrowhead Mills organic popping corn sprouts – that is the only brand of dried corn I've gotten to sprout.
OK, now you're ready to actually start the sprouting process. Get your jar and fill it not quite half full with the dried beans. Fill it the rest of the way with water. Add the GSE, 1 cc per quart. If you get it from Nutriteam you will use 11 to 15 drops per quart. Soak for 12-24 hours. I usually start them soaking first thing in the morning and drain them just before I go to bed. Drain all the water out, rinse if you wish and set the jar, tilted, with the opening down (so it can continue to drain but get air) in a dry place out of direct sunlight. I use the sink in a half bath and leave them in the dark. 24-36 hours later they are food. The little sprout tails should be very short - 1/8-1/4" long. If they get too long the nutritional value diminishes. The sprouts will keep several days in the refrigerator so if you end up with more sprouts than you have birds, you do not need to worry. They will keep!
Margrethe Warden
While not the “miracle” food they are often touted as, sprouted seeds and beans can be a beneficial part of any bird’s diet. Sprouting does alter the nutritional make up. The germination process can increase the vitamin and amino acid content of the seed or bean and it can also decrease the mineral, fat, and protein content.
People are often reluctant to attempt sprouting seeds and beans on their own because they believe it to be a complicated process. In fact, it is really quite simple. The thing about sprouts is you soak them 12-24 hours, using a stabilizer (bleach or grapefruit seed extract), drain them, and wait. If you use bleach you will need to rinse them every couple of hours until they've sprouted. I got started in sprouting through China Prairie using one-quart canning jars with lids and the grapefruit seed extract (GSE). The advantage of GSE is that you don't have to rinse the seeds once they've soaked & been drained. You can go to the China Prairie site and order their starter kit for $75. It includes several pounds of human grade seed for sprouting, three jars and lids, a tower for draining the jars, the GSE and a spirulina supplement that makes the whole thing smell very good.
You can do it yourself piecemeal if you'd like. Get some wide mouth canning jars and you can use cheesecloth purchased from the supermarket, secured over the lid with a rubber band. You can buy GSE from most health food stores or on the Internet from Nutriteam. If you order online, I recommend getting the 4 oz. size. Add about ten or twelve drops (I cc) per quart jar.
If you don't like draining through cheesecloth, you can get lids to fit wide mouth canning jars from The Sprout People . You can get jars in the 2 quart size too but that's a LOT of sprouts. They also sell seeds for sprouting but they're expensive.
For seeds you can order the 5# bags from China Prairie alone or you can gather up your own seeds & grains. I do buy some human grade seed and beans for sprouting from SunOrganic Farm. Keep in mind you will pay for shipping but their prices aren't bad. You will want to include mung beans, adzuki beans, lentils, whole peas, hulled sunflower seeds, hulled pumpkin seeds, millet, radish seeds, hulled oats, wheat berries. Also, Arrowhead Mills organic popping corn sprouts – that is the only brand of dried corn I've gotten to sprout.
OK, now you're ready to actually start the sprouting process. Get your jar and fill it not quite half full with the dried beans. Fill it the rest of the way with water. Add the GSE, 1 cc per quart. If you get it from Nutriteam you will use 11 to 15 drops per quart. Soak for 12-24 hours. I usually start them soaking first thing in the morning and drain them just before I go to bed. Drain all the water out, rinse if you wish and set the jar, tilted, with the opening down (so it can continue to drain but get air) in a dry place out of direct sunlight. I use the sink in a half bath and leave them in the dark. 24-36 hours later they are food. The little sprout tails should be very short - 1/8-1/4" long. If they get too long the nutritional value diminishes. The sprouts will keep several days in the refrigerator so if you end up with more sprouts than you have birds, you do not need to worry. They will keep!
HEMOCHROMATOSIS IN LORIES
HEMOCHROMATOSIS IN LORIES
Margrethe Warden
Hemochromatosis or Iron Storage Disease is a metabolic disorder that causes an unusually large amount of iron to be accumulated in body tissue. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), Hereditary Hemochromatosis in humans is one of the most common genetic diseases in the United States, affecting as many as one million people. The genetic factors that cause the disorder have been isolated. It is not only treatable but also in some cases preventable. While much is known about this disorder in humans one should be cautioned against drawing too many parallels in its effects on avian species. In lories it is a potentially lethal problem. In avian species the causes are unknown but veterinarians and aviculturists believe it to be a combination of several factors including diet, evolution and genetics. This disease has been most commonly seen in captive soft billed birds such as mynahs, toucans and birds of paradise and is rarely seen in these same species in the wild. It seems to occur more commonly in frugivores and insectivores. There is growing evidence to indicate that lories may also be a species vulnerable to this disorder. Because they are becoming increasingly popular in the United States we are likely to see more and more incidents of hemochromatosis in our lories.
There have not been many studies conducted on avian hemochromatosis; therefore, much of what is commonly believed about the disorder is speculation. Most of the information relating to Iron Storage Disease and lories is anecdotal and as such is not always appropriate data for an actual scientific discussion. I began learning more about this condition in 1999 when it was discovered in several of my own lories, specifically in five of my black lories (Chalcopsitta atra).
In most cases, hemochromatosis is asymptomatic until shortly before death. When evident, symptoms can include difficulty breathing, fluid in the air sacs, paralysis and distended abdomen. Actual diagnosis is usually made during a necropsy. In living birds, tests conducted on tissue retrieved from a liver biopsy can make a specific diagnosis. Radiographs and blood work on living specimens can indicate liver disorders that may include iron storage but will not accurately diagnose the disorder itself. Other tests may not be as helpful in determining status of hemochromatosis in a living bird. If diagnosed in a living bird, there are some treatments available, although many of the results are questionable. Phlebotomy, drawing blood equal to 1% of the bird’s body weight on a regular basis, is acceptable treatment. It is not always a practical one, especially on aviary birds not used to being handled. Chelation is also a possible treatment. The drug Deferoxamine has been used experimentally on birds with limited success. Research using natural plant tannins is now in progress in different locations. The Riverbanks Zoo in Columbia, SC has been testing the use of tannins by giving tea to their toucan population; however, as of this writing the results are not available.
Iron is stored in the cells of the liver until it is needed to create hemoglobin. The storage of iron occurs most frequently in the liver but may involve other organs as well. The availability of dietary iron is considered to be a factor in the subsequent storage. Plants store iron in a tightly bound form thereby reducing its availability. Animal products such as bone meal and blood have more bioavailable iron than plant material. The more available the iron is the more readily it can be extracted and stored in the tissue. Diets that contain animal protein sources can be higher in available dietary iron than those using plant protein sources. While plant sources are considered to have less available iron there is a school of thought which says that items such as grapes and bananas have a higher iron content than other fruits and should be avoided. Because they contain plant source iron, it is not known if this warrants great concern. Another factor that assists the absorption of iron is ascorbic acid, commonly found in citrus fruits. The acid can release the tightly bound iron from plants and make it more available. While many aviculturists have used citrus successfully, the use of it is something to consider when developing your total diet.
While diet can play a formidable role in the development of hemochromatosis, it can also occur when there are relatively low levels of dietary iron. Genetics must also be considered a factor. The predisposition to the disorder may be hereditary and passed on through certain bloodlines. Anecdotally, lories in the Chalcopsitta group (blacks, duyvenbodes and yellow streaks) seem to be more susceptible than some of the other species. Because this group of lories exists in American aviculture in prodigious numbers, it is almost impossible at this point to trace the genetic link or differentiate the bloodlines. In a natural environment, dietary iron may be practically nonexistent in some regions and birds must adapt by becoming better able to process and store necessary iron. It is possible that lories have evolved into one of the species that process iron too efficiently thereby absorbing and storing all available iron. Kept in captivity, these birds are fed a diet that, even while it is considered to be low in iron, has a much higher iron content than that which would be found in their wild habitats. It also appears that birds who are prone to iron storage do not decrease the uptake of iron when the amount stored is adequate
This disorder usually shows up in lories around five or six years of age; however, it has been discovered in much younger birds than that who have been fed a diet high in iron content. It is ultimately a fatal disorder that can take months, even years, to develop and become severe enough to result in death. The prevalence of hemochromatosis in lories is not well documented; therefore, it is not known if it has become a common problem in our captive population. The lack of documentation underscores the importance of performing a complete necropsy on every lory that dies. A liver stain can diagnose iron storage. Even when hemochromatosis does not appear to be the primary cause of death, it is important to conduct the histopathology to determine if the disorder was developing in the individual. Only through these tests and the compilation of information will the pervasiveness of this disease be documented and understood.
This disorder usually shows up in lories around five or six years of age; however, it has been discovered in much younger birds than that who have been fed a diet high in iron content. It is ultimately a fatal disorder that can take months, even years, to develop and become severe enough to result in death. The prevalence of hemochromatosis in lories is not well documented; therefore, it is not known if it has become a common problem in our captive population. The lack of documentation underscores the importance of performing a complete necropsy on every lory that dies. A liver stain can diagnose iron storage. Even when hemochromatosis does not appear to be the primary cause of death, it is important to conduct the histopathology to determine if the disorder was developing in the individual. Only through these tests and the compilation of information will the pervasiveness of this disease be documented and understood.
Hemochromatosis may not be a great concern to the average pet owner but it should be considered when keeping a collection of lories and also when selecting the diet most appropriate for ones birds. Maintaining the total dietary iron below 100 ppm (parts per million) can be effective in keeping this disorder to a minimum. During the summer of 1999 most of the commercial diets formulated for lories available to collectors and pet owners in the United States, along with some handfeeding formulas and monkey chow, were tested for total iron content at the University of Georgia. While the total nutritional value was not evaluated, it was found that the iron content in all the diets manufactured specifically for lories fell below 100 ppm. These diets did not all contain added iron but iron occurred naturally in many of the ingredients and occurs in the milling process as well. A good quality commercial product is often the base of a good lory diet. Add to that are an assortment of fresh foods. Certain foods such as peaches, plums, honeydew melon and apples without skin are low in iron. Bananas, mangoes, papaya, summer squashes and boiled potatoes without skin are a bit higher in iron content but can still be within the acceptable range. Foods to definitely avoid would include baby foods and juices and nectars that contain iron, foods that are enriched with iron or ferrous sulfate (including table scraps), animal products, such items as primate biscuits, and large quantities of citrus fruit.
Since most lory species are no longer being imported into this country, we must be diligent in maintaining the good health of the existing population.
Ritchie, Harrison, Harrison; Avian Medicine, Principles and ApplicationDarrel Styles, Hemochromatosis: A Metabolic Disease of Softbills,Kirk Klasing, Comparative Avian NutritionAlicia McWatters, personal communicationCheryl Greenacre DVM, ABVP, personal communicationCenters for Disease Control and Prevention, Overview on Iron Overload and Hemochromatosis
Commercial Products Tested for Iron Content in 1999
Product Iron content (ppm)
Pretty Bird 8% Handfeeding 101*Kaytee Exact Handfeeding 374Nekton Lori 71Lories Delight 51Roudybush Lory 93CeDe 61Monkey Chow 201Nutribird 86Lory Life Nectar 98*Lory Life Powder* 84/82**
*Lory Life Powder was tested again in 2000 because it had subsequently been reformulated to contain less iron. Results revealed it contained 27.66 ppm (parts per million) iron. Tests were performed in 2002. The first showed two separate batches of powder as 77 ppm and 102 ppm and the nectar mix at 68. The second set of tests done in December 2002 showed Lory Life powder at 40.41 ppm and nectar mix at 32.36 ppm. Tests done from 2003 to present show Lory Life, both powder & nectar, within the 25ppm - 45 ppm range.
Pretty Bird handfeeding formula was also tested in 2002 and was 111 ppm.
* *Two separate batches were tested
In 1999 most of the feed samples and the bulk of the funding for testing were provided by the online community of Lory World.
Ritchie, Harrison, Harrison; Avian Medicine, Principles and ApplicationDarrel Styles, Hemochromatosis: A Metabolic Disease of Softbills,Kirk Klasing, Comparative Avian NutritionAlicia McWatters, personal communicationCheryl Greenacre DVM, ABVP, personal communicationCenters for Disease Control and Prevention, Overview on Iron Overload and Hemochromatosis
Commercial Products Tested for Iron Content in 1999
Product Iron content (ppm)
Pretty Bird 8% Handfeeding 101*Kaytee Exact Handfeeding 374Nekton Lori 71Lories Delight 51Roudybush Lory 93CeDe 61Monkey Chow 201Nutribird 86Lory Life Nectar 98*Lory Life Powder* 84/82**
*Lory Life Powder was tested again in 2000 because it had subsequently been reformulated to contain less iron. Results revealed it contained 27.66 ppm (parts per million) iron. Tests were performed in 2002. The first showed two separate batches of powder as 77 ppm and 102 ppm and the nectar mix at 68. The second set of tests done in December 2002 showed Lory Life powder at 40.41 ppm and nectar mix at 32.36 ppm. Tests done from 2003 to present show Lory Life, both powder & nectar, within the 25ppm - 45 ppm range.
Pretty Bird handfeeding formula was also tested in 2002 and was 111 ppm.
* *Two separate batches were tested
In 1999 most of the feed samples and the bulk of the funding for testing were provided by the online community of Lory World.
Visceral Gout
Visceral Gout in Birds
Margrethe Warden
Of the many health concerns plaguing caged birds, one that seems to appear often enough to cause some concern is gout, which is brought on by the build up of uric acid Uric acid is produced by the liver and excreted through the kidneys. It is the result of metabolizing nitrogen that is present in the food. The uric acid itself is not toxic or harmful but the build up of crystals can severely damage body tissue. The build-up of uric acid crystals is the result of the inability of the kidneys to remove from the blood the waste products resulting from nitrogen metabolism. The uric acid, when not properly removed from the blood stream, will begin to crystallize and collect in various places in the bird’s body. Accumulation in the joints and surrounding tissues, usually in the legs and feet, is articular gout. This is considered to be the chronic form of gout and it presents as swelling in the joints and can cause the inability to properly balance and perch or lameness. Visceral Gout is build up of uric acid crystals in the various internal organs (viscera) and it is considered the acute form of the disease. I first encountered visceral gout in 1995 after the necropsy of my first lory, a four year old male red (Eos bornea), and I have seen and heard of it in a number of birds since that time.
The exact cause of visceral gout is not clear but it appears there are a variety of factors that might cause a predisposition. It is often associated with high levels of dietary protein and calcium, Vitamin D3 hypervitaminosis, insufficient levels of Vitamin A and even lack of sufficient water supply. Other factors such as toxins, viruses, bacteria, other infections or metabolic disorders and stressors can interfere with kidney function and precipitate a problem.
Visceral gout is most often seen during a necropsy and is difficult to diagnose in a living specimen. The most frequently seen sign of the disease is sudden death. The symptoms, if there are any, are vague and non-specific and can include depression, lethargy anorexia, feather plucking or other behavioral changes. Absent definitive symptoms, uric acid levels can be routinely monitored. If the levels become elevated, an endoscopic procedure can diagnose gout.
If it is diagnosed in a living specimen it is difficult, if not impossible, to treat and the prognosis is poor. Visceral gout cannot be “cured” but it can be managed to some extent and steps can be taken to prevent further uric acid build up. Exercise is important in treating the problem. Other treatments can include a diet heavy on the natural vegetable, fruits and Vitamin A and low in protein. There are some allopathic drugs such as Allupurinol, which can lower uric acids levels and have been used in birds with varied results. There are also several homeopathic treatments that might prove useful in managing this disorder.
While high protein levels have been associated with visceral gout there is no evidence that healthy kidneys in a bird will be harmed by excessive dietary protein. Birds in captivity; however, are often exposed to a host of toxins and pathogens that unbeknownst to the owner can cause damage to their birds’ kidneys. It is at that point that dietary protein levels become a potential hazard.
Visceral gout has shown up in a variety of avian species. It is not uncommon in egg producing poultry flocks and is just as difficult to diagnose in chickens as it is in caged birds. Often the affected chickens show no symptoms and produce normally until they are close to death. Research indicates that infections such as viral bronchitis and nutritional factors such high levels of calcium in the diet, along with exposure to toxins, may be the cause of visceral gout in these poultry flocks. The repeated occurrence of visceral gout in pionus parrots gave rise to the Pionus Parrot Research Foundation (http://www.fatparrots.org), a not for profit organization whose primary purpose is to study the natural diet of pionus parrots in the Mindo Valley of Ecuador. Prior to establishing this organization there had been only one serious study of the diet of wild pionus parrots. While this research project is ongoing, information extrapolated thus far suggests that the pionus in the wild have a dietary protein level of about 3% - 6% when it is not breeding season. Most commercially manufactured avian maintenance diets in the US have levels ranging from 11% - 14%. For this reason, many pionus breeders and enthusiasts recommend feeding their birds a varied diet of fresh vegetables, fruits and freshly sprouted seeds while offering pellets only as a small percentage of the total food intake.
Unlike many other avian disorders, visceral gout is not exclusive to our captive companions or domestic poultry. Research conducted by the Peregrine Fund into the causes of death in Asian vulture species has shown visceral gout to be a reoccurring finding during necropsy. The gout is unlikely to be the result of dehydration as drinking water is consistently available all year. The condition was no more common during periods of high temperature or during periods of low rainfall. While a variety of pathogens have been linked to visceral gout no specific one were found in the tissue cultures. Similarly, while the vulture diet and range could potentially expose them to a number of harmful elements, none were found present in histopathology.
While visceral gout is hard to detect and difficult to treat once discovered, monitoring uric acid levels can be a useful tool for detecting and managing birds with this disorder. Annual check ups, plenty of clean fresh water and a good balanced diet are factors that can help keep your birds free of this disease.
Comparative Avian Nutrition; Kirk Klasing, CAB International, New York, 1998.
The Asian Vulture Crisis; The Peregrine Fund; www.peregrinefund.org/conserv_vulture.html
AVIAN UROLITHIASIS (Renal or Visceral Gout), Dr. Bernie Beckman, Technical Bulliten Hy-Line International Diet of the Scaly-headed Parrot (Pionus Maximiliani) in a Semideciduous Forest in Southeastern Brazil, Mauro Galetti, Biotropica, 1993 Thanks to Heather Wilson DVM, ABVP Dipl. of the University of Georgia for ensuring I was accurate with my information.
Margrethe Warden
Of the many health concerns plaguing caged birds, one that seems to appear often enough to cause some concern is gout, which is brought on by the build up of uric acid Uric acid is produced by the liver and excreted through the kidneys. It is the result of metabolizing nitrogen that is present in the food. The uric acid itself is not toxic or harmful but the build up of crystals can severely damage body tissue. The build-up of uric acid crystals is the result of the inability of the kidneys to remove from the blood the waste products resulting from nitrogen metabolism. The uric acid, when not properly removed from the blood stream, will begin to crystallize and collect in various places in the bird’s body. Accumulation in the joints and surrounding tissues, usually in the legs and feet, is articular gout. This is considered to be the chronic form of gout and it presents as swelling in the joints and can cause the inability to properly balance and perch or lameness. Visceral Gout is build up of uric acid crystals in the various internal organs (viscera) and it is considered the acute form of the disease. I first encountered visceral gout in 1995 after the necropsy of my first lory, a four year old male red (Eos bornea), and I have seen and heard of it in a number of birds since that time.
The exact cause of visceral gout is not clear but it appears there are a variety of factors that might cause a predisposition. It is often associated with high levels of dietary protein and calcium, Vitamin D3 hypervitaminosis, insufficient levels of Vitamin A and even lack of sufficient water supply. Other factors such as toxins, viruses, bacteria, other infections or metabolic disorders and stressors can interfere with kidney function and precipitate a problem.
Visceral gout is most often seen during a necropsy and is difficult to diagnose in a living specimen. The most frequently seen sign of the disease is sudden death. The symptoms, if there are any, are vague and non-specific and can include depression, lethargy anorexia, feather plucking or other behavioral changes. Absent definitive symptoms, uric acid levels can be routinely monitored. If the levels become elevated, an endoscopic procedure can diagnose gout.
If it is diagnosed in a living specimen it is difficult, if not impossible, to treat and the prognosis is poor. Visceral gout cannot be “cured” but it can be managed to some extent and steps can be taken to prevent further uric acid build up. Exercise is important in treating the problem. Other treatments can include a diet heavy on the natural vegetable, fruits and Vitamin A and low in protein. There are some allopathic drugs such as Allupurinol, which can lower uric acids levels and have been used in birds with varied results. There are also several homeopathic treatments that might prove useful in managing this disorder.
While high protein levels have been associated with visceral gout there is no evidence that healthy kidneys in a bird will be harmed by excessive dietary protein. Birds in captivity; however, are often exposed to a host of toxins and pathogens that unbeknownst to the owner can cause damage to their birds’ kidneys. It is at that point that dietary protein levels become a potential hazard.
Visceral gout has shown up in a variety of avian species. It is not uncommon in egg producing poultry flocks and is just as difficult to diagnose in chickens as it is in caged birds. Often the affected chickens show no symptoms and produce normally until they are close to death. Research indicates that infections such as viral bronchitis and nutritional factors such high levels of calcium in the diet, along with exposure to toxins, may be the cause of visceral gout in these poultry flocks. The repeated occurrence of visceral gout in pionus parrots gave rise to the Pionus Parrot Research Foundation (http://www.fatparrots.org), a not for profit organization whose primary purpose is to study the natural diet of pionus parrots in the Mindo Valley of Ecuador. Prior to establishing this organization there had been only one serious study of the diet of wild pionus parrots. While this research project is ongoing, information extrapolated thus far suggests that the pionus in the wild have a dietary protein level of about 3% - 6% when it is not breeding season. Most commercially manufactured avian maintenance diets in the US have levels ranging from 11% - 14%. For this reason, many pionus breeders and enthusiasts recommend feeding their birds a varied diet of fresh vegetables, fruits and freshly sprouted seeds while offering pellets only as a small percentage of the total food intake.
Unlike many other avian disorders, visceral gout is not exclusive to our captive companions or domestic poultry. Research conducted by the Peregrine Fund into the causes of death in Asian vulture species has shown visceral gout to be a reoccurring finding during necropsy. The gout is unlikely to be the result of dehydration as drinking water is consistently available all year. The condition was no more common during periods of high temperature or during periods of low rainfall. While a variety of pathogens have been linked to visceral gout no specific one were found in the tissue cultures. Similarly, while the vulture diet and range could potentially expose them to a number of harmful elements, none were found present in histopathology.
While visceral gout is hard to detect and difficult to treat once discovered, monitoring uric acid levels can be a useful tool for detecting and managing birds with this disorder. Annual check ups, plenty of clean fresh water and a good balanced diet are factors that can help keep your birds free of this disease.
Comparative Avian Nutrition; Kirk Klasing, CAB International, New York, 1998.
The Asian Vulture Crisis; The Peregrine Fund; www.peregrinefund.org/conserv_vulture.html
AVIAN UROLITHIASIS (Renal or Visceral Gout), Dr. Bernie Beckman, Technical Bulliten Hy-Line International Diet of the Scaly-headed Parrot (Pionus Maximiliani) in a Semideciduous Forest in Southeastern Brazil, Mauro Galetti, Biotropica, 1993 Thanks to Heather Wilson DVM, ABVP Dipl. of the University of Georgia for ensuring I was accurate with my information.
Back Wing Lory
The Back Wing Lory, Eos cyanogenia,
Rich Perniciaro
Metarie, LA
Other Names: Blue cheeked lory, Biak red lory
Subspecies: None recognized
Regions of Origin: The islands of Greelviink Bay, the island of Biak, Islands of Irian Jaya-Numfor, Manim, Meos Num and Supiori
Wild Status: As per Rosemary Low's Encyclopedia of Lories, page 208, "In 1986, Bishop found it was common and widespread on Biak and Supiori, but virtually unknown on Numfor and Manim." By the time this article is printed, I will have returned from my trip to Indonesia (June 2000) and can tell you at a later date just what I will have seen for myself.
Habitat: Mostly along the coasts, usually in coconut palms
Eggs/Incubation: 24-26 Days, two eggs
Description: As with all Eos, primarily a red bird. The wings have a large solid black patch extending from the top to 80% down the wing. The inner primaries are black on top and red below, and on most individuals, the outer primaries end in bright yellow trimmed in black (not all birds, and the amount of yellow varies). Beak ranges in color from bright red to maroon. Legs are gray and the iris is reddish brown. Large purple / blue "v" shaped patch which starts at the eyes and continues out to the rear of the head, with these feathers being slightly longer than the surrounding red feathers. This forms a sort of a horizontal crest, which when they are excited, seems to extend and raise further than the surrounding red feathers (note though, they cannot control this as say a cockatoo might). The area under the eyes and behind the beak is a brighter red than the rest of the body. The immature have extreme black barring in the red feathering of the body and a black beak.
My experiences: In Christmas 1997 I finally got my first pair of black wing lories. I had been looking for several months and had almost given up on ever getting a pair. The lady that was selling them called me and said that they were available. I drove ten hours the next day and picked them up! On the way home I could not help noticing the strong, but not unpleasant musky smell that these birds have. I enjoyed these birds so much in the first few weeks that I decided I would do everything that I could do to save them in aviculture. I proceeded to purchase every black wing I could find, whether pet or breeder. There were times that I paid twice or three times what a bird was worth on the open market. After three years, I have ten pairs and three extra males. Of those, five pair are mature, one pair is immature, three pair are old enough (two-three year olds) and one pair (the first) are imports. At first I thought the problem was that not enough were kept back for breeding and too many had gone into the pet trade. While this may have been a contributing factor, after three years and much research I have concluded that they are just VERY hard to breed in captivity. Out of all of these pairs, only three pair produce and those not every year. When they do have young or eggs in the nest, I have to be very careful not to look into the nest box or even make eye contact, especially with the males. If I do, I am sure to find cracked eggs, dead young or female in the nestbox! Out of all of the species that I have had (8 or so species), Black wing lories are definitely the most easily spooked. Contrary to what I have read, they are not noisy birds and will readily imitate whistles that I use to call my Jack Russell terrier while in the yard. I live in the southern USA and they tolerate our mild winters and hot humid summers well. I feed using two commercial diets, which comprises no more than 20-30% of their total diet with the rest being fresh fruits and vegetables. I feed twice daily, once before work and once when I get home from work. I do agree with most of the literature that I have read that says that the black wing seem to eat less than other Eos species. I frequently find uneaten corn, powder, or apples in their cages (which is why I have the Jack Russell terrier, to control vermin). My lories are in hanging cages that are roughly six feet long, three feet wide and four feet high with classic "L" shaped nest boxes at the rear of the cages. There has been much speculation as to housing and weather or not black wing lories should be housed next to each other. While I do know of at least one breeder who has success housing then together, I feel that they do better separated by other species, otherwise the males hang on the sides of the cages spending their time "protecting" their territory. Two of the three other people in the United States that I can confirm have had success in breeding the black wing lories incubate the eggs to ensure their survival. I estimate that there are less than 50 pair of black wing lories left in the USA (based on the young available, other breeder’s collections, and how long it took me to collect the specimens that I have). So far I have been unsuccessful in any of my birds rearing their own young and all have been hand fed. I may in the near future try foster parents as a way of raising the young.
Of the three extra males that I have, one is a habitual female killer (he has killed three) and will forever be a show bird (It should be noted that this bird is most agreeable and is of superb pet quality), one other is just mature and the third is a handsome male that has a band of 1969, which would make him 31 years old! This bird is also stunning and has placed at many shows in the last two years. If I ever get an extra female, I am interested to see if he can still produce offspring as he seems to be calmer than the others.
Will they survive in aviculture? I do not know the answer to that question, but with the continuing interest in these, in my opinion the most majestic of the Eos species, I am sure that breakthroughs are on the horizon. I have no idea on the black wing numbers in other countries and would welcome any data that anyone out there may have. I run a web site dedicated to the black wing lories, www.lorybreeder.com and you can continue to follow their developments on that site as well as mail me at rdpern@aol.com
Below you will find a list of the books that have pictures or text of the Black Wing Lory as well as references for this article:
Encyclopedia of the Lories, R. Low , page 207
Lories & Lorikeets, R. Low, page 51
Handbook of Lories, R. Sweeney , page 94 (bad picture)
Owners Manual of Lories, M. Vriends, page 57 (inaccurate picture)
Lories and Lorikeets in Aviculture , John Vanderhoof, page 47 (painting)
Out of all of these pictures, the painting by Gamini Ratnivera in John Vanderhoof’s book is the best I have seen, and it also shows a feather painting. Generally, most pictures in the above books are of young or poor quality specimens. The above mentioned books were also a source of information for this article.
Rich Perniciaro
Metarie, LA
Other Names: Blue cheeked lory, Biak red lory
Subspecies: None recognized
Regions of Origin: The islands of Greelviink Bay, the island of Biak, Islands of Irian Jaya-Numfor, Manim, Meos Num and Supiori
Wild Status: As per Rosemary Low's Encyclopedia of Lories, page 208, "In 1986, Bishop found it was common and widespread on Biak and Supiori, but virtually unknown on Numfor and Manim." By the time this article is printed, I will have returned from my trip to Indonesia (June 2000) and can tell you at a later date just what I will have seen for myself.
Habitat: Mostly along the coasts, usually in coconut palms
Eggs/Incubation: 24-26 Days, two eggs
Description: As with all Eos, primarily a red bird. The wings have a large solid black patch extending from the top to 80% down the wing. The inner primaries are black on top and red below, and on most individuals, the outer primaries end in bright yellow trimmed in black (not all birds, and the amount of yellow varies). Beak ranges in color from bright red to maroon. Legs are gray and the iris is reddish brown. Large purple / blue "v" shaped patch which starts at the eyes and continues out to the rear of the head, with these feathers being slightly longer than the surrounding red feathers. This forms a sort of a horizontal crest, which when they are excited, seems to extend and raise further than the surrounding red feathers (note though, they cannot control this as say a cockatoo might). The area under the eyes and behind the beak is a brighter red than the rest of the body. The immature have extreme black barring in the red feathering of the body and a black beak.
My experiences: In Christmas 1997 I finally got my first pair of black wing lories. I had been looking for several months and had almost given up on ever getting a pair. The lady that was selling them called me and said that they were available. I drove ten hours the next day and picked them up! On the way home I could not help noticing the strong, but not unpleasant musky smell that these birds have. I enjoyed these birds so much in the first few weeks that I decided I would do everything that I could do to save them in aviculture. I proceeded to purchase every black wing I could find, whether pet or breeder. There were times that I paid twice or three times what a bird was worth on the open market. After three years, I have ten pairs and three extra males. Of those, five pair are mature, one pair is immature, three pair are old enough (two-three year olds) and one pair (the first) are imports. At first I thought the problem was that not enough were kept back for breeding and too many had gone into the pet trade. While this may have been a contributing factor, after three years and much research I have concluded that they are just VERY hard to breed in captivity. Out of all of these pairs, only three pair produce and those not every year. When they do have young or eggs in the nest, I have to be very careful not to look into the nest box or even make eye contact, especially with the males. If I do, I am sure to find cracked eggs, dead young or female in the nestbox! Out of all of the species that I have had (8 or so species), Black wing lories are definitely the most easily spooked. Contrary to what I have read, they are not noisy birds and will readily imitate whistles that I use to call my Jack Russell terrier while in the yard. I live in the southern USA and they tolerate our mild winters and hot humid summers well. I feed using two commercial diets, which comprises no more than 20-30% of their total diet with the rest being fresh fruits and vegetables. I feed twice daily, once before work and once when I get home from work. I do agree with most of the literature that I have read that says that the black wing seem to eat less than other Eos species. I frequently find uneaten corn, powder, or apples in their cages (which is why I have the Jack Russell terrier, to control vermin). My lories are in hanging cages that are roughly six feet long, three feet wide and four feet high with classic "L" shaped nest boxes at the rear of the cages. There has been much speculation as to housing and weather or not black wing lories should be housed next to each other. While I do know of at least one breeder who has success housing then together, I feel that they do better separated by other species, otherwise the males hang on the sides of the cages spending their time "protecting" their territory. Two of the three other people in the United States that I can confirm have had success in breeding the black wing lories incubate the eggs to ensure their survival. I estimate that there are less than 50 pair of black wing lories left in the USA (based on the young available, other breeder’s collections, and how long it took me to collect the specimens that I have). So far I have been unsuccessful in any of my birds rearing their own young and all have been hand fed. I may in the near future try foster parents as a way of raising the young.
Of the three extra males that I have, one is a habitual female killer (he has killed three) and will forever be a show bird (It should be noted that this bird is most agreeable and is of superb pet quality), one other is just mature and the third is a handsome male that has a band of 1969, which would make him 31 years old! This bird is also stunning and has placed at many shows in the last two years. If I ever get an extra female, I am interested to see if he can still produce offspring as he seems to be calmer than the others.
Will they survive in aviculture? I do not know the answer to that question, but with the continuing interest in these, in my opinion the most majestic of the Eos species, I am sure that breakthroughs are on the horizon. I have no idea on the black wing numbers in other countries and would welcome any data that anyone out there may have. I run a web site dedicated to the black wing lories, www.lorybreeder.com and you can continue to follow their developments on that site as well as mail me at rdpern@aol.com
Below you will find a list of the books that have pictures or text of the Black Wing Lory as well as references for this article:
Encyclopedia of the Lories, R. Low , page 207
Lories & Lorikeets, R. Low, page 51
Handbook of Lories, R. Sweeney , page 94 (bad picture)
Owners Manual of Lories, M. Vriends, page 57 (inaccurate picture)
Lories and Lorikeets in Aviculture , John Vanderhoof, page 47 (painting)
Out of all of these pictures, the painting by Gamini Ratnivera in John Vanderhoof’s book is the best I have seen, and it also shows a feather painting. Generally, most pictures in the above books are of young or poor quality specimens. The above mentioned books were also a source of information for this article.
Rainbow Lories in American Aviculture
Rainbow Lories in American Aviculture
Margrethe Warden (www.lorikeets.com)
Lories are undoubtedly some of the most beautiful birds in the world, and none stand out more than the popular and appropriately named Rainbow lories. These widely distributed birds are native to Australia and many of the Islands of Indonesia and the South Pacific. For the most part they exist in their natural environments in great numbers; however, on a few of the islands the habitat is diminishing and there may be some cause for concern. They have been heavily traded and over the years have achieved great popularity as pets and household companions. The term "Rainbow Lory" is a generic one applied to over 20 separate brightly colored birds. The Rainbow group, Trichoglossus haematodus, is comprised of one nominate species, commonly called the green naped lory, and approximately twenty-two subspecies. Of this group about eight types appear, or have appeared at some point, in American aviculture.
Green napes, the nominate species T. h. haematodus, are by the far the most commonly seen and most readily available birds in this group. They are easy to breed and appear frequently in the pet trade. Green napes mainly inhabit the islands of New Guinea and Indonesia where they often appear in large flocks at the forest’s edge. Their bodies are green. Their foreheads, crown and lores are blue, shaft streaked with green. The back of their head is purple; the breast is red with the feathers clearly edged in dark blue. The collar is greenish yellow.
Another popular and commonly seen member of this family is the Swainson’s or Blue Mountain lory, T. h. moluccanus. Its head is dark blue to violet, shaft streaked with a lighter blue. The abdomen is dark blue and the breast is orange and does not have the dark tipped feathers seen on the green nape. The collar is yellow-green. Several color mutations have been documented but they are extremely rare. These lories are native to Eastern Australia where they can be seen frequently in yards and other populated areas.
The Edwards lory, T. h. capistratus, is becoming more common and in my opinion has the nicest temperament of the entire group. The body is green. The head is green; the forehead; crown and chin are blue, shaft streaked with a darker blue. The breast is yellow with a bit of orange edging, the abdomen is dark green and the collar is a greenish yellow. This bird is native to the lowlands of Timor. In general, Edwards lories seem to be less nippy and aggressive than the green napes when mature. This increases their desirability as pets.
The remaining five species, including the Rosenberg’s lory (T. h. rosenbergii), Blue Head or Pale Headed lory (T. h. caeruleiceps) and the Weber’s lory (T. h. weberi) appear less frequently in this country. The Weber’s is the only lory of the rainbow group not as brilliantly colored. It is mainly green and yellow. The slightly smaller Mitchell’s lory, T. h. mitchellii, has almost completely disappeared from aviculture in the United States and all that remains here now is a fragile population. Additionally, the wild population in its native home on the islands of Bali and Lombak appears to have diminished significantly and the existing population is in peril. Forsten’s lories (T. h. forsteni) were imported into the U.S. periodically in the past but have become scarce in recent years. Its status in the wild is believed to be declining as well. There may be a few specimens of some of the other Rainbow subspecies still in the United States but they are almost unheard of and, with no apparent viable population, they are rarely seen.
Rainbow lories are generally 9" – 11" long and weigh about 100-160 grams; however, there is some difference in size among the different subspecies. They have long, pointed tails, orange beaks, gray feet and red irises. They are loud and very active birds. In his 1896 book, St. George Mivart describes it as "a quarrelsome and noisy bird". In captivity hand fed rainbow lories can be affectionate and entertaining pets. In the wild their diet consists of pollen, nectar, berries, fruits and insects. Their uniquely designed tongue, covered with brush-like papillae, is designed to gather pollen. The gizzard or ventriculus of the lory is not muscular enough to manage the diet of dry seeds and hard foods of other parrots. It was this very characteristic that kept lories from gaining the popularity of other seed eating birds. With the creation and advancement of commercial powder and nectar diets created specifically for lories, feeding them is no longer the challenge it once was. A diet composed of a good quality lory food such as that produced by Lory Life or Nekton accompanied by a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables and plenty of fresh water should keep your bird happy and healthy. Lory droppings will be a bit runny but with a little creativity and imagination this can be easily managed. Plastic mats used under office chairs can easily and inexpensively protect the carpet. Sheets of shower board or plastic shower curtains can protect the walls while offering a surface easy to clean. Acrylic cages or panels fastened to the outside of the cage can also be effective in keeping the mess to a minimum. When kept as companion birds, rainbow lories can become fair to moderate talkers as well as become accomplished at mimicking the various other sounds that occur in their environment.
In the wild, rainbow lories move about the lowland trees, acrobatically going about their daily business of gathering food and being noisy. In captivity they are no less energetic, often requiring a cage larger than necessary for other parrots of comparable size. These birds utilize every inch of their cage, from top to bottom not just the levels on which they find perches. They not only enjoy hanging toys but also derive great pleasure from the ones that are loose on the bottom of the cage. They can spend hours flinging these loose toys around the cage, constantly rearranging them. A bath bowl is a welcome treat for the lory. They enjoy bathing as well as dunking all their toys in the water. Bath time can be one of the loudest and most exciting parts of a lory’s day.
Rainbow lories have achieved great popularity as pets in recent years although their appeal is not just a modern phenomenon. In Nineteenth Century texts by Sir William Jardine and St. George Mivart, their beauty and temperament was recognized and well documented. According to Jardine, "In disposition they are lively, but mild and tractable, and when domesticated, fond of being caressed." He also noted that "Members of this genus are birds of elegant form, and some exhibit a great variety and richness of plumage." The difficulties experienced in keeping lories were obvious even in 1836 as Jardine states, "They do not eat any kind of grain, even in a domesticated state… It appears that they seldom live long in confinement, and that when caged they are subject to fits. This in all probability arises from a deficiency of their natural food." An improper diet has been known to take years off the life expectancy of a lory. As we are learning more and more about their dietary requirements, lories are living much longer in captivity. It is reasonable to expect the companion rainbow lory to achieve a life span of 15-25 years.
Margrethe Warden (www.lorikeets.com)
Lories are undoubtedly some of the most beautiful birds in the world, and none stand out more than the popular and appropriately named Rainbow lories. These widely distributed birds are native to Australia and many of the Islands of Indonesia and the South Pacific. For the most part they exist in their natural environments in great numbers; however, on a few of the islands the habitat is diminishing and there may be some cause for concern. They have been heavily traded and over the years have achieved great popularity as pets and household companions. The term "Rainbow Lory" is a generic one applied to over 20 separate brightly colored birds. The Rainbow group, Trichoglossus haematodus, is comprised of one nominate species, commonly called the green naped lory, and approximately twenty-two subspecies. Of this group about eight types appear, or have appeared at some point, in American aviculture.
Green napes, the nominate species T. h. haematodus, are by the far the most commonly seen and most readily available birds in this group. They are easy to breed and appear frequently in the pet trade. Green napes mainly inhabit the islands of New Guinea and Indonesia where they often appear in large flocks at the forest’s edge. Their bodies are green. Their foreheads, crown and lores are blue, shaft streaked with green. The back of their head is purple; the breast is red with the feathers clearly edged in dark blue. The collar is greenish yellow.
Another popular and commonly seen member of this family is the Swainson’s or Blue Mountain lory, T. h. moluccanus. Its head is dark blue to violet, shaft streaked with a lighter blue. The abdomen is dark blue and the breast is orange and does not have the dark tipped feathers seen on the green nape. The collar is yellow-green. Several color mutations have been documented but they are extremely rare. These lories are native to Eastern Australia where they can be seen frequently in yards and other populated areas.
The Edwards lory, T. h. capistratus, is becoming more common and in my opinion has the nicest temperament of the entire group. The body is green. The head is green; the forehead; crown and chin are blue, shaft streaked with a darker blue. The breast is yellow with a bit of orange edging, the abdomen is dark green and the collar is a greenish yellow. This bird is native to the lowlands of Timor. In general, Edwards lories seem to be less nippy and aggressive than the green napes when mature. This increases their desirability as pets.
The remaining five species, including the Rosenberg’s lory (T. h. rosenbergii), Blue Head or Pale Headed lory (T. h. caeruleiceps) and the Weber’s lory (T. h. weberi) appear less frequently in this country. The Weber’s is the only lory of the rainbow group not as brilliantly colored. It is mainly green and yellow. The slightly smaller Mitchell’s lory, T. h. mitchellii, has almost completely disappeared from aviculture in the United States and all that remains here now is a fragile population. Additionally, the wild population in its native home on the islands of Bali and Lombak appears to have diminished significantly and the existing population is in peril. Forsten’s lories (T. h. forsteni) were imported into the U.S. periodically in the past but have become scarce in recent years. Its status in the wild is believed to be declining as well. There may be a few specimens of some of the other Rainbow subspecies still in the United States but they are almost unheard of and, with no apparent viable population, they are rarely seen.
Rainbow lories are generally 9" – 11" long and weigh about 100-160 grams; however, there is some difference in size among the different subspecies. They have long, pointed tails, orange beaks, gray feet and red irises. They are loud and very active birds. In his 1896 book, St. George Mivart describes it as "a quarrelsome and noisy bird". In captivity hand fed rainbow lories can be affectionate and entertaining pets. In the wild their diet consists of pollen, nectar, berries, fruits and insects. Their uniquely designed tongue, covered with brush-like papillae, is designed to gather pollen. The gizzard or ventriculus of the lory is not muscular enough to manage the diet of dry seeds and hard foods of other parrots. It was this very characteristic that kept lories from gaining the popularity of other seed eating birds. With the creation and advancement of commercial powder and nectar diets created specifically for lories, feeding them is no longer the challenge it once was. A diet composed of a good quality lory food such as that produced by Lory Life or Nekton accompanied by a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables and plenty of fresh water should keep your bird happy and healthy. Lory droppings will be a bit runny but with a little creativity and imagination this can be easily managed. Plastic mats used under office chairs can easily and inexpensively protect the carpet. Sheets of shower board or plastic shower curtains can protect the walls while offering a surface easy to clean. Acrylic cages or panels fastened to the outside of the cage can also be effective in keeping the mess to a minimum. When kept as companion birds, rainbow lories can become fair to moderate talkers as well as become accomplished at mimicking the various other sounds that occur in their environment.In the wild, rainbow lories move about the lowland trees, acrobatically going about their daily business of gathering food and being noisy. In captivity they are no less energetic, often requiring a cage larger than necessary for other parrots of comparable size. These birds utilize every inch of their cage, from top to bottom not just the levels on which they find perches. They not only enjoy hanging toys but also derive great pleasure from the ones that are loose on the bottom of the cage. They can spend hours flinging these loose toys around the cage, constantly rearranging them. A bath bowl is a welcome treat for the lory. They enjoy bathing as well as dunking all their toys in the water. Bath time can be one of the loudest and most exciting parts of a lory’s day.
Rainbow lories have achieved great popularity as pets in recent years although their appeal is not just a modern phenomenon. In Nineteenth Century texts by Sir William Jardine and St. George Mivart, their beauty and temperament was recognized and well documented. According to Jardine, "In disposition they are lively, but mild and tractable, and when domesticated, fond of being caressed." He also noted that "Members of this genus are birds of elegant form, and some exhibit a great variety and richness of plumage." The difficulties experienced in keeping lories were obvious even in 1836 as Jardine states, "They do not eat any kind of grain, even in a domesticated state… It appears that they seldom live long in confinement, and that when caged they are subject to fits. This in all probability arises from a deficiency of their natural food." An improper diet has been known to take years off the life expectancy of a lory. As we are learning more and more about their dietary requirements, lories are living much longer in captivity. It is reasonable to expect the companion rainbow lory to achieve a life span of 15-25 years.
These diminutive birds, while making charming companions, are quite fearless and aggressive. In the home they think nothing of facing down the family dog or a bird many times their size. If lories are kept with other types of birds it is best not to let them socialize together without vigilant supervision, as injury is often the result of such interaction. They are curious and will get into anything and everything. They are intent on getting their own way and can be rather stubborn when facing a challenge. Often older birds can become more aggressive and a bit nippy. While possibly not emitting the decibels of a macaw scream, these birds can be very vocal and their calls can reach a fairly high and uncomfortable pitch. If there is more than one, the enthusiasm is contagious. Of a flock of wild Rainbow lories, Mivart states "The incessant din produced by their thousand voices, and the screaming they emit…, baffles all description, and must be seen and heard to be fully comprehended." No one who has ever encountered even a small group of rainbow lories will disagree with this description.
Rainbow lories are susceptible to all the diseases common to psittacines such as Proventricular Dilatation Disease (PDD), gout, fatty liver, and polyoma. There is also a strain of the beak and feather virus (PBFD) whose mutation is thought to be exclusive to lories. In addition, many types of lories have shown to be vulnerable to hemochromatosis or iron storage disease.
Breeding rainbow lories is not difficult. These birds are not sexually dimorphic so they must be accurately sexed either surgically or with DNA samples. Because of their size they can be housed in cages smaller that necessary for some of the larger species. I have successfully bred them in 3’ cages. It seems that an "L" shaped nest box is the most suitable and the best protection against broken eggs. Rainbow lories typically lay two eggs and the incubation period is about 24 days. Females have been known to produce fertile eggs as young as nine months of age; however, it may be beneficial to the hens to wait a few more months before allowing the hens to breed.
Often these lories become prolific breeders, producing several clutches each year. If possible, the parents should be allowed to feed the young for the first two or three weeks. Doing so allows for stronger and healthier chicks and can serve to slow down the hen’s rate of reproduction. At the age of two to three weeks, the babies can be removed from the nest, banded and hand fed. I start the chicks off on a commercial hand feeding formula which I dilute with Lory Life nectar and gradually switch them totally to nectar. To the nectar I’ll sometimes add pureed fruit or iron free, organic baby fruit. Even when they are quite young I will offer them to additional foods such as small pieces of fruit. Their natural curiosity makes it easy to introduce new foods. These birds wean easily on their own, usually within 6 to 9 weeks of age. There is almost always a market for young, tame rainbow lories, as they have become desirable companion birds.
The brightly colored plumage and inquisitive personalities of the Rainbow Lories have made this group of birds extremely appealing as pets. They are not terribly expensive and can be found in all regions of the United States. While lories are not for everyone, for those who are willing to accommodate the noise, the dietary needs and the rather runny droppings, these beautiful and animated birds will bring great joy and delight for many years.
Low, Rosemary, Hancock House Encyclopedia of the Lories, 1998
Forshaw, Joseph, Parrots of the World, 1977
Jardine, Sir William, Naturalists Library, Volume VI Parrots, 1836
Mivart, St. George, A Monograph of the Lories, or Brush-Tongued Parrots, composing the Family Loriidae, 1896
Forshaw, Joseph, Parrots of the World, 1977
Jardine, Sir William, Naturalists Library, Volume VI Parrots, 1836
Mivart, St. George, A Monograph of the Lories, or Brush-Tongued Parrots, composing the Family Loriidae, 1896
Chalcopsitta Lories in U.S.
As Good As It Gets – Chalcopsitta Lories in U.S. Aviculture
As Good As It Gets – Chalcopsitta Lories in U.S. Aviculture
Of all the lory species available in the United States, my favorites, hands down, are those in the Chalcopsitta group. This group includes Yellow Streaks, C. scintillata; Duyvenbodes, C. duivenbodei; and Blacks, C. atra. Also in this genus are the Cardinals, C. cardinalis; however, they are not as firmly established in U.S. aviculture as others in this genus. Members of this group are larger than most other lories, have long, rounded tails and are native the lowlands of New Guinea and some nearby islands. At this time they appear to be well established in their native habitat. Their wing beats are distinctively shallow and flight seems slow. The most notable trait of this group is the bare skin surrounding the lower mandible. They do not posses the same brightly colored plumage of some of the more commonly seen lories but in my opinion their subtle coloring makes them more beautiful.
As Good As It Gets – Chalcopsitta Lories in U.S. Aviculture
Of all the lory species available in the United States, my favorites, hands down, are those in the Chalcopsitta group. This group includes Yellow Streaks, C. scintillata; Duyvenbodes, C. duivenbodei; and Blacks, C. atra. Also in this genus are the Cardinals, C. cardinalis; however, they are not as firmly established in U.S. aviculture as others in this genus. Members of this group are larger than most other lories, have long, rounded tails and are native the lowlands of New Guinea and some nearby islands. At this time they appear to be well established in their native habitat. Their wing beats are distinctively shallow and flight seems slow. The most notable trait of this group is the bare skin surrounding the lower mandible. They do not posses the same brightly colored plumage of some of the more commonly seen lories but in my opinion their subtle coloring makes them more beautiful.
As a whole, this group of lories seems to be the gentlest and best natured of the lories. This characteristic is documented as far back as one hundred years ago. In his 1896 book “The Loriidae”, St. George Mivart declares that this particular group of lories “…frequently approach the human habitations, which lead to their often being caught. Then they are easily domesticated and at least two species of them are said to be amongst the gentlest of birds.” Of the Chalcopsitta group, Mivart additionally indicates that some “will spontaneously approach human dwellings, and in most of them make excellent pets, except for those persons who cannot tolerate the shrill cries they often emit.”
One of the most overlooked lories in my opinion has been the black lory, Chalcopsitta atra. This bird is without a doubt one of the most delightful lories one could have. On first glance you might think it’s just a black crow only with a hooked bill but closer examination reveals this is an incorrect assessment. While the bird is primarily black in color, there is a purple sheen to the feathers. Another look reveals subtle shades of yellow and red. The black lories I have owned have been at least 12” long and weigh in the neighborhood of 250 grams. While they are as noisy as any other parrot, I have found all of them, including my breeders, to be gentle and affectionate. They are typically fearless, as lories tend to be. Of the black lory specifically, Mivart states “It seems to approach human habitation: hence it is often caught, when it is easily domesticated and shows itself gentle and attractive.” Black lories may be one of the oldest known lories. Both Mivart and Rosemary Low refer to a 1771 description of them in account of a voyage to New Guinea by Sonnerat. While blacks are not noted for being accomplished talkers and mimics many have managed to acquire a small vocabulary.
The yellow streaked lories have gained recognition as wonderful pets. These birds have dark green plumage, red forehead and thighs and its breast is streaked with bright yellow shafts. They are the flashiest members of this genus and the only one that has green feathers. Their beaks are dark and they are slightly smaller than the black lories. Owners of these lories describe them as generally sweet, very loving and good-natured but also indicate they often tend to be one-person birds. Of the yellow streak Mivart claims it “…has a docile disposition and is easily domesticated.” These outgoing birds enjoy the company of human companions and can charm a crowd of any age.
The Duyvenbode’s or brown lory is another subtle but dramatically marked bird. The plumage is generally dark brown, highlighted with bright yellow on the thighs, forehead, around the beak and under the wings. Their beaks are also black. As pets, these birds have been described as sweet and devoted and tend to like most humans. They make excellent companion birds. They are typical lories so do not be surprised at the high-pitched shriek that is their voice.
Cardinal lories, are gaining in popularity as their population in the Unites States increases. While they existed in the Unites States in small numbers, in January 1999, the Solomon Island Parrot Consortium added 49 more birds to the existing population. The wild caught, imported birds have done well and have reproduced. Several consortium members are working on the F2 generation. These birds are a deep, dark red bird, not the bright, flashy red colors of some of the more common varieties of lory. I have come to enjoy these birds almost as much as any of the other lories I’ve worked with. They are also calm by nature and seem to make good companions when hand reared. They are native to the Solomon Islands where they are still relatively plentiful. As their numbers increase here, I expect to see them become popular in the pet trade. Those who have had the pleasure of their company speak highly of the charm and personality.
As is the case with all lories, everything is a toy. The most entertaining of all playthings are those which make noise. Balls with bells and toys that are loose that can be tossed about the cage provide great amusement. These birds also enjoy ropes (be mindful of fraying), swings and things with knots that can be undone. I once accidentally dropped the plastic back piece from a plastic crock into the cage housing a pair of yellow streaks.
One of the birds immediately jumped on it and proceeded to slam it all around the cage, “killing” it, for some time before I could retrieve it.
Large cages are a must for these birds. The smallest size I house a single Chalcopsitta in is 3’ by 3’ by 2’. Smaller cages are acceptable only if the lory gets plenty of time outside the cage. Lories can be aggressive and full of mischief with other birds so it is not a good idea to house them with other lories or other birds unless you are setting them up for breeding. If they share out of the cage time with other birds be sure they do so only under strict supervision.
Feeding Chalcopsitta lories is simple. Start out with a good commercial lory nectar such as Lory Life or Nekton. In addition to that, add fresh fruits and vegetables. My lories all seem to enjoy papayas, corn, peas, apples, berries, melon, sweet potato, mango, persimmon and sprouted seeds and peas. The Chalcopsittas seem to be particularly vulnerable to hemochromatosis or iron storage disease. It is very important to ensure that the total dietary iron remains below 100 parts per million (ppm). This can be accomplished by feeding a quality commercial diet supplemented with fruits and vegetables that are low in iron and ascorbic acid.
All lories like water. They require and abundant supply of fresh drinking water. They also are vigorous bathers who cannot seem to get enough bath time! A spray bottle or large, shallow pan of water can provide for an adequate bath. Many lory owners let their birds enjoy splashing and playing in a shallowly filled bathtub.
When setting up pairs of Chalcopsitta lories for breeding it is best to start with young birds that can mature together. Allow the birds ample time to gradually get to know each other before placing them in a cage together. When breeding these lories, it is necessary to use the largest cage possible to allow some room for flying and playing. Breeders have had the most success using the ‘L’ or boot shaped nest boxes. The boxes I use are roughly 10”x10”x18” with a three-inch opening. They usually lay clutches of two eggs and the incubation period is about 25 days. Handfeeding lory chicks is relatively easy. I start them out using a commercial handfeeding formula that is fairly low in iron and gradually switch them over to liquid nectar. In the early weeks I’ll also add some organic baby applesauce or other organic baby fruit. Small paper cups such as the ones used for bathrooms or water coolers are ideal for feeding. They are less messy than syringes and disposable. It has been my experience that lories wean easily and their natural curiosity aids them in trying and accepting all kinds of new foods.
When setting up pairs of Chalcopsitta lories for breeding it is best to start with young birds that can mature together. Allow the birds ample time to gradually get to know each other before placing them in a cage together. When breeding these lories, it is necessary to use the largest cage possible to allow some room for flying and playing. Breeders have had the most success using the ‘L’ or boot shaped nest boxes. The boxes I use are roughly 10”x10”x18” with a three-inch opening. They usually lay clutches of two eggs and the incubation period is about 25 days. Handfeeding lory chicks is relatively easy. I start them out using a commercial handfeeding formula that is fairly low in iron and gradually switch them over to liquid nectar. In the early weeks I’ll also add some organic baby applesauce or other organic baby fruit. Small paper cups such as the ones used for bathrooms or water coolers are ideal for feeding. They are less messy than syringes and disposable. It has been my experience that lories wean easily and their natural curiosity aids them in trying and accepting all kinds of new foods.
For anyone who is thinking about getting started with lories, the Chalcopsitta family will provide a richly rewarding avian experience. If I could only have one lory in the world I would narrow it down to a choice from this group. They are delightful and devoted companions and should provide years of pleasure for the human fortunate enough to have them in their life.
Red Lory
The Red Lory From a Pet Owners’ Perspective
Mary Chinnici
Neptune, NJ
With the possible exception of the Green Nape, red lories are perhaps the most commonly available lory species for the pet trade. Many fellow owners will no doubt share some of my observations of the last eight or so years of my two female reds. The older of the two is a Buru, the younger, a Moluccan, and they are approximately 9 and 7 years old. I have watched them undergo changes over the years, but for the most part, they have very distinctly different personalities and traits. Whether these differences are determined by the difference of their sub species or an individual thing, I can’t say for sure. My Buru, smaller and darker in color than the Moluccan, is very reserved, watchful, sneaky, and not easily riled. She is very calm and independent and not the bundle of energy that one thinks of when they think of a lory. She will often sit quietly in her cage with the door open for hours. She plays, but not as often or with the reckless abandon that typifies my Moluccan and most other lories. She is most un-lory like in that she is a very neat eater, and for the most part, does not flick her nectar everywhere. My husband is her preferred human and she will gallantly defend him from me at every turn.My Moluccan typifies the behavior of most lories with a seeming zest for life, and incredible enthusiasm for everything. She’s a tornado when eating anything, and playing is a serious all out affair. She seldom has more than two intact tail feathers. I am her favorite human and she follows me like a shadow. Both birds speak words and phrases though I wouldn’t consider them particularly gifted in that department. The Moluccan says more things than the Buru, and both say most things fairly clearly, but the Buru is a magnificent whistler and imitator of sound effects. The Buru is the quieter if the two, but neither bird is particularly loud, though they do have their moments, usually during something I want to see on TV. Both birds are frequent (almost daily) and enthusiastic bathers, and both participate in the practice of "anting" afterward, the Buru with a mineral stone, the Moluccan with eucalyptus pods. They meticulously chip off small pieces of their respective materials and apply it to their bodies, another common lory trait.
Eating habits between the two are very similar. Both adore their main diet of liquid nectar above all else, with corn and broccoli playing a close second (human junk food not withstanding). Fruit is either played with or ignored, with the exception of an apple wedge. Both birds like to snuggle with their respective humans for a nap but the similarities in sleeping habits end there. Upon retiring for the evening, the Moluccan can be seen hanging upside down from the top of her cage. The Buru is tucked safely inside her beloved nest box shredding paper to her hearts’ content until she falls asleep. It was in that nest box that she surprised us with her first egg at 7 years of age. The Moluccan, at 6 years of age, has yet to lay.
Reds have the reputation of being the most likely feather pluckers of the lories, something I didn’t really believe until about a year ago. The Moluccan plucked her leg feathers bare while she was being watched by my parents one weekend but we believed it to be a one time freak occurrence—until now. We began to notice tiny blood feathers on the cage bottom and bare patches under the wings. We tried several things, and whether it was any of those things or just coincidence that she stopped, we’ll probably never know. She does however, go through occasional cycles of letting feathers grow completely back for some time, and then some minor pulling. The Buru had never plucked as much as one feather until we discovered a small bare spot at the base of the tail, and upon inspection of the nest box in which she sleeps at night, some small blood feathers. We suspect she picked up the habit from the Moluccan but can’t be sure. Anti feather picking spray applied before bed time has pretty much solved the problem and feathers are almost completely grown back.
All in all, I love the reds as pets, and would gladly get another if the situation were right. When people see my Reds, their first comment is on their striking red color. Along with their personalities, they make us take notice. I suppose that those two things more than anything else are what drew my husband and me to purchasing the amusing and beautiful bird that jumped on his finger more than eight years ago. We were sold right there and then. We didn’t know much about parrots, and had never heard of a lory, but we’ve learned a lot since that fateful day, and have loved every minute (well almost) of owning our two reds. Sure they can be messy, as with any bird, and there is the occasional painful bite, but we wouldn’t have it any other way. They are wonderful companions and have truly enriched our lives.
Rainbow Lorikeet
Flying Paint Pallets
Matt Baird, Australia
Rainbow Lorikeet (Trichoglossus haematodus moluccanus)
Description:
Length 30cm
Weight 140 gm
The first ever illustration of any Australian parrot that was published, was in fact a Rainbow lorikeet, back in 1774 in Peter Brown’s New Illustrations of Zoology.
Habitat:
The Rainbow Lorikeet is commonly found all down the east coast of Australia, from Tasmania to Northern Queensland, to where they have become somewhat a tourist attraction at Currumbin Sanctuary (where hundreds of Rainbows fly in every morning and afternoon for their free feed). There is an isolated population in and around the city of Perth on the far western side of Australia .It is suspected that this population grew or originated from aviary escapes.
In Melbourne it is common to see the birds flying around in small groups during the day and gathering to very large noisy flocks at feeding and roosting sites. Rainbows can be heard before they are seen, as they are very argumentative amongst themselves and other birds in the tree.
Swainson's Lorikeet - Lutino mutation
Sexing:
One must always remember that there is no true visual way of sexing a Rainbow Lorikeet. The only true and reliable way is either surgical sexing or DNA (Blood /Feather).
Diet:
Over the years there have been more home recipes developed regarding the feeding of Lories and Lorikeets, in both their wet and dry diets. Over the last 10 years there has been a lot of work done by some of the major pet food companies in conjunction with Aviculturists, in the development of Lory and Lorikeet diets.
A wet mix is supplied early in the morning with the amount given depending on whether there are chicks in the nest. The wet mix should all be consumed within 1-2 hours. The reason for this is that the wet mix can sour very quickly in the Australian heat. As with the wet mix a fresh supply of fruit and veggies is feed out every morning, consisting of apple, pear, mango, orange, banana, kiwi fruit, broccoli, celery, peas and beans. Again this is only fed out in the morning as all food bowls are collected before the heat of the day. There is a constant supply of the dry mix always available to the birds. And, at the end off the day, a fresh supply of wet mix is fed, along with a piece of fruit.
Swainson't Lorikeet - dilute blue-fronted mutation
With any bird, a constant supply of fresh drinking water is a must. All Lories and Lorikeets love to bathe and so a water bowl large enough to allow the birds to hop into will be greatly appreciated by the birds. They also love to make their own wet mix in their water bowls with the dry food so a strict cleaning regimen must be in place. As these commercially available diets are becoming better and more freely available, the pet bird owner/Aviculturist must supply a fresh supply of fruit and veggies daily to the birds.
Housing:
In Australia, the Rainbow Lorikeet is classed as an ideal bird for the beginner lorikeet breeder as these birds are very easy to care for and will breed freely for
anyone starting out in Loryculture. The cage/housing needs for Rainbows will always come down to the owner’s personal budget. As long as the cage/aviaryis not too small for the bird, successful breeding is almost guaranteed.
Swainson's Lorikeet - cinnamon mutation
Rainbows will do well in both a conventional aviary or suspended. I personally prefer the suspended as the ease of daily feeding and cleaning is a lot less intrusive to the birds. As a guide, I can recommend a suspended aviary be a minimum length of 1.2 meters (4 ft) x .600mm (2 ft) wide x .900mm (3 ft) high. Rainbow Lorikeets will accept a variety of nest boxes or hollow logs hung either vertically or horizontally on the outside of the cage, not only for the keepers ease of nest inspection but to also allow the full use of the cage for the birds. I prefer a nest box that has a removable drawer/nest chamber, as this makes changing the soiled wet nesting material done with ease and very little interference to the parent birds and chicks.
Breeding:
Rainbow Lorikeets will breed from the age of approximately 12 months and will breed
freely through out the year. 2 eggs are laid with a 1-2 day interval, with an incubation period of 24 days and with fertility almost 100%. Occasionally 3 eggs are laid but this is very rare. Rainbow Lorikeets hatch with a fine wispy, white down. Their eyes open at 14 days. By the 20th day, the babies are covered in a dull grey down, and are almost fully feathered at 40 days Chicks will fledge at approximately 60 days of age.
Chicks that are left with their parents should be observed regularly not only as the chicks are developing in the nest (as the parents can be know to pluck the chicks) but also when the chicks have fledged, as the parents can become aggressive towards their young in eagerness to go back to nest. The fledglings look a little duller than their parents, with their brown beaks and pale skin around the eye. Over the last 10-15 years, a lot of work focusing on the development of mutations in the Rainbow Lorikeet has developed some very stunning and truly beautiful colour mutations.
Mutations:
Grey Green, Cinnamon, Blue Fronted, Mustard, Olive, Lutino and
Pied are all well established in Australian aviaries with some new
mutations starting to appear.
Swainson's Lorikeet - Blue-front mutation
Summary:
The Rainbow lorikeet would have to be one of Australia’s most popular lorikeets. Its amazing plumage, crazy antics and the ability to mimic words and sounds not only make it a fantastic pet but also a great aviary subject. It’s not just for the beginner to Loryculture. Its willingness to breed freely and the knowledge and the experience gained by keeping this wonderful bird will help any Loriculturist get a good strong foothold on the keeping and breeding of Lories and Lorikeets currently available in Aviculture.
Matt Baird, Australia
Rainbow Lorikeet (Trichoglossus haematodus moluccanus)
Description:
Length 30cm
Weight 140 gm
The first ever illustration of any Australian parrot that was published, was in fact a Rainbow lorikeet, back in 1774 in Peter Brown’s New Illustrations of Zoology.
Habitat:
The Rainbow Lorikeet is commonly found all down the east coast of Australia, from Tasmania to Northern Queensland, to where they have become somewhat a tourist attraction at Currumbin Sanctuary (where hundreds of Rainbows fly in every morning and afternoon for their free feed). There is an isolated population in and around the city of Perth on the far western side of Australia .It is suspected that this population grew or originated from aviary escapes.
In Melbourne it is common to see the birds flying around in small groups during the day and gathering to very large noisy flocks at feeding and roosting sites. Rainbows can be heard before they are seen, as they are very argumentative amongst themselves and other birds in the tree.
Swainson's Lorikeet - Lutino mutation
Sexing:
One must always remember that there is no true visual way of sexing a Rainbow Lorikeet. The only true and reliable way is either surgical sexing or DNA (Blood /Feather).
Diet:
Over the years there have been more home recipes developed regarding the feeding of Lories and Lorikeets, in both their wet and dry diets. Over the last 10 years there has been a lot of work done by some of the major pet food companies in conjunction with Aviculturists, in the development of Lory and Lorikeet diets.
A wet mix is supplied early in the morning with the amount given depending on whether there are chicks in the nest. The wet mix should all be consumed within 1-2 hours. The reason for this is that the wet mix can sour very quickly in the Australian heat. As with the wet mix a fresh supply of fruit and veggies is feed out every morning, consisting of apple, pear, mango, orange, banana, kiwi fruit, broccoli, celery, peas and beans. Again this is only fed out in the morning as all food bowls are collected before the heat of the day. There is a constant supply of the dry mix always available to the birds. And, at the end off the day, a fresh supply of wet mix is fed, along with a piece of fruit.
Swainson't Lorikeet - dilute blue-fronted mutation
With any bird, a constant supply of fresh drinking water is a must. All Lories and Lorikeets love to bathe and so a water bowl large enough to allow the birds to hop into will be greatly appreciated by the birds. They also love to make their own wet mix in their water bowls with the dry food so a strict cleaning regimen must be in place. As these commercially available diets are becoming better and more freely available, the pet bird owner/Aviculturist must supply a fresh supply of fruit and veggies daily to the birds.
Housing:
In Australia, the Rainbow Lorikeet is classed as an ideal bird for the beginner lorikeet breeder as these birds are very easy to care for and will breed freely for
anyone starting out in Loryculture. The cage/housing needs for Rainbows will always come down to the owner’s personal budget. As long as the cage/aviaryis not too small for the bird, successful breeding is almost guaranteed.
Swainson's Lorikeet - cinnamon mutation
Rainbows will do well in both a conventional aviary or suspended. I personally prefer the suspended as the ease of daily feeding and cleaning is a lot less intrusive to the birds. As a guide, I can recommend a suspended aviary be a minimum length of 1.2 meters (4 ft) x .600mm (2 ft) wide x .900mm (3 ft) high. Rainbow Lorikeets will accept a variety of nest boxes or hollow logs hung either vertically or horizontally on the outside of the cage, not only for the keepers ease of nest inspection but to also allow the full use of the cage for the birds. I prefer a nest box that has a removable drawer/nest chamber, as this makes changing the soiled wet nesting material done with ease and very little interference to the parent birds and chicks.
Breeding:
Rainbow Lorikeets will breed from the age of approximately 12 months and will breed
freely through out the year. 2 eggs are laid with a 1-2 day interval, with an incubation period of 24 days and with fertility almost 100%. Occasionally 3 eggs are laid but this is very rare. Rainbow Lorikeets hatch with a fine wispy, white down. Their eyes open at 14 days. By the 20th day, the babies are covered in a dull grey down, and are almost fully feathered at 40 days Chicks will fledge at approximately 60 days of age.
Chicks that are left with their parents should be observed regularly not only as the chicks are developing in the nest (as the parents can be know to pluck the chicks) but also when the chicks have fledged, as the parents can become aggressive towards their young in eagerness to go back to nest. The fledglings look a little duller than their parents, with their brown beaks and pale skin around the eye. Over the last 10-15 years, a lot of work focusing on the development of mutations in the Rainbow Lorikeet has developed some very stunning and truly beautiful colour mutations.
Mutations:
Grey Green, Cinnamon, Blue Fronted, Mustard, Olive, Lutino and
Pied are all well established in Australian aviaries with some new
mutations starting to appear.
Swainson's Lorikeet - Blue-front mutation
Summary:
The Rainbow lorikeet would have to be one of Australia’s most popular lorikeets. Its amazing plumage, crazy antics and the ability to mimic words and sounds not only make it a fantastic pet but also a great aviary subject. It’s not just for the beginner to Loryculture. Its willingness to breed freely and the knowledge and the experience gained by keeping this wonderful bird will help any Loriculturist get a good strong foothold on the keeping and breeding of Lories and Lorikeets currently available in Aviculture.
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